Ponto de partida e de chegada. Lisboa
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Às vezes tento ler o meu futuro. Não nos astros, nem nas cartas, nem na
palma da mão. Tento lê-lo dentro de mim. Mas encontro tantas páginas soltas
que nã...
Photo of The Day
Short stories about traveling to interesting places
30/12/08
Big city on a raining day. London, UK
Raining in London is not the most uncommon thing. One day I will write something about visiting big cities under the rain…I have some experience: NY, Tokyo, Berlin... Nevertheless, our raining day in London in the Christmas season end up in a magnificent food experience. We went to Fifteen restaurant. Everybody knows about Jamie Olivier from the TV shows at cable TV, where he cooks at the speed of sound some delicious things, which even may sound easy to the common men. In 2002, Jamie Oliver combined two ambitions and opened a top class restaurant. But Fifteen is much more that a simple “bistrot”. Fifteen Foundation as a second goal, allowing to the disadvantaged youngsters the chance to gain professional training that would set them up for an independent, inspired and productive life in the cooking world. In 2008, Fifteen is still achieving these two goals. We have to options in discovering this magnificent experience: The Trattoria, on the ground floor, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner where we can enjoy great food in the typical Italian style. This space is rustic and relaxed and has a friendly service. The Trattoria is a great place to meet friends at any time of the day. The Trattoria opens from 7.30am Monday to Saturday (8am on Sunday) for coffees and breakfast, moving on to serve some truly delicious lunch and dinner dishes from “á la carte” menus. Downstairs we have more at Fifteen! The Dining Room, the retro styling and open kitchen where combine to make a relaxed and friendly environment. The emphasis is on top quality seasonal produce, simply prepared with care and passion to create the best in modern Mediterranean dishes with an Italian influence. For something more extravagant, in the evenings they serve an amazing tasting menu giving our guests the opportunity to taste all of Fifteen's favorites. I was impressed for the food, for the “ambiance” but mainly for this social enterprise that has directly supported and helped transform the lives of many young persons. For the moment they are running Fifteen restaurants (each with their own foundation and apprenticeship schemes) in Amsterdam, Cornwall and Melbourne. Once here’s so much more to do, I hope Lisbon can be in the Fifteen map too. I offer my self to help. Well done Jamie. Fifteen London is at 15 Westland Place, London N1 7LP, just under 600m from the Old Street roundabout.
29/12/08
Tricky Traveler reshaped.
Six months is time to celebrate but also to evaluate. During this first six months I received some critics and some demands too. A few of those suggestions I was able to incorporate in the old format. However, a few others required some more layout changes. Keeping the basic spirit, we are about to get in into a new Tricky Traveler era. The texts should be shorter they say, to let the photos speak for themselves. Done! Some more traveling tips were required! I will try to add, in some cases, maps, and some specific suggestions from the place and some other tips for the visitor: how to get there; opening hours, roads less traveled, what to eat, the stories and other curiosities behind the scenes. With all these information it is easy to lose the focus, and move to other fields’ music, literature, etc. But I promise to do my best preserve the initial spirit: One photo and a short story about traveling to interesting places. About the layout! I realize in fact that it is not practical for the reader to display permanently all the Tricky Patterns. It gets difficult to get to end of the page and reach the other items: Tricky List; On the spot; or to the Archive. I will erase the older ones and keep just the new one. I hope you notice that among all the Patterns, the one just at the right side of the main photos is always linked somehow with the photo. For my Portuguese friends, and after many and powerful requests, I start a page called “Mundigrafia” (with a direct link from Tricky Traveler) with more photos and some stories in Portuguese. This page is less strict, and everything related with traveling is possible. I hope you like it. Suggestions and critics are, naturally, welcomed. By the way, the photo is from Brussels, Belgium.
23/12/08
Contradiction. Formentera, Spain
Six months ago today, I had this blog idea and I posted my first photo on Tricky Traveler, which was about one of my favorite places: Formentera, in the Balearic Islands, in Spain. In my opinion, one of the best beaches in the word. From that date until now, a lot has happen: we have passed true 56 different photos, with the same amount of short stories, we visited 30 different countries in the several continents and, in the right side of the page, we also discover also 37 different patterns inspired from traveling. But early this morning when I was righting this text, I realize that the “6 month anniversary” is the wrong expression! In fact “6 month anniversary” is, in English, an oxymoron, because an anniversary is an annual event. [An oxymoron is a figure of speech that combines two normally contradictory terms]. I guess I really should have said my “one half” or “point six” anniversary. Right? It doesn’t make sense! Often, the best way to say something is not grammatically correct, or linguistically correct, or even technically correct. It’s the way that best facilitates understanding by the reader, and that usually means writing the way you speak (or talk, if you prefer). It is the game of evidences. Sometimes it is just not so evident, what it seams, it is not what it means, or what it means, is not what seams is. It happen the same with sunsets. A perfect clear sunny day do not always means a perfect sunset. But, by the contrary, usually in the summer, a lousy day can result in a perfect sunset. That was the case in this photo. I apologize to go back (again) to Formentera, but I had to display this beautiful sunset taken in the interior sea of the island last August. This is the perfect to celebrate the “6 month anniversary” of Tricky Traveler. I thanks to the 835 visitors and all friends who posted a comment.
17/12/08
Mayfair district in the West End. London, UK
I just arrive from London, from a short visit. I stayed, for the first time at Mayfair district in the West End of London. What a surprise. I realized then, that Mayfair district is London's most exclusive district and in many ways an amazing place to live, work and visit. Named after the fortnight long May Fair that took place there, Mayfair is a fashionable district that includes the most important retail shopping activity in the United Kingdom. Mayfair W1 set roughly between Oxford Street, Regent Street, Piccadilly and Park Lane, is at the very heart of London and is the most expensive property on the British Monopoly board game! Mayfair is truly a microcosm - all life is here from all over the world. Yet with its beautiful squares and parks to rest in, it also remains a peaceful haven in the centre of the great city of London. Most of the area was first developed between the mid 17th century and the mid 18th century as a fashionable residential district, by a number of landlords, the most important of them the Governor family. The freehold of a large section of Mayfair also belongs to Queen Elizabeth II. The hart of Mayfair is Shepherds Market, between Piccadilly and Curzon Street, was named after Edward Shepherd, who built it in the mid-18th century. Today, Shepherd Market is a pedestrianized enclave of small shops, pubs, restaurants and out-doors cafés with a great London atmosphere.
02/12/08
Floating market. Ratchaburi, Thailand
Damnoen Saduak in Ratchaburi about 109 kilometers south of Bangkok is a place full of life and color and a well-known and attractive traveling site. In my view, it is one of my greatest places I ever visited. Historically, Damnoenssaduak was actually the name of the canal dug in the reign of King Rama IV by the military men and the people of Rajburi, Samutsakorn and Samutsongkram Province directed by Phayasrisuriyawong, the minister of Defense. Nowadays Damnoensaduak is one of a provincial district of Rajburi Province. Most people live densely along both sides of the canal from one end of the canal to another. The majority of this people are agriculturists. They grow several different kinds of fruit and vegetable for examples oranges, grapes, papayas, cabbages, bean, onion and etc. The land in this area is naturally fertile. Apart from providing transportation, Damnoensaduak Canal also provides farmers with adequate water for agricultural purposes for the whole year around. More than 200 small canals were dug by local peasants to connect with it to get water to splatter their land. Moreover; these small canals also become propitious ways of taking their agricultural products to the markets in neighboring provinces and Bangkok. Day in and day out from about 8 a.m. to about 11 a.m. the Floating Market is routinely crowded with hundreds of vendors and purchasers floating in their small rowing boats selling and buying or exchanging their goods. They usually travel on their small rowing boats. However; today the long-tailed boats pushing by engine become very popular. People tend to use them instead. Anyhow because of the shortage of fuel today long-tailed boats are quite unavailable compared to a few years ago. The progress is arrived by the charm stills the same.
21/11/08
For the first time. Prague, Czech Republic
One of the things you never forget is the first time you went on a big trip. For the most part of the Europeans of my generation, the Inter Rail train ticket was the starting point of this big moment. One month, not much money, zero experience in travelling and the entire Europe to discover. A few days ago I read in a book that said that “loosing your travel virginity is a bit like loosing that other virginity really: you spend years dreaming about it; you have absolutely no idea what you're doing; it's over much quicker than you'd hoped; and you know you want to go back and try it again”. This sentence is the painful truth. My Inter rail was, like to all others I know, a trip that featured all of the first-time traveller clichés, for the experience and for the visited places, with one exception: Spain and France for the proximity, then Italy (Roma, Firenze, and Venezia) and Austria (Salzburg and Innsbruck). No, we didn’t go to Greece! On the contrary: in our last day in Venezia, at the stairs of the Santa Lucia Train Station, we were strong enough to change our plans. We were an extremely well organized group of friends - who had spent several days planning the whole trip (from the amount of tuna cans everyone should carry along, to the cheapest camping site we would have in each city) – but, for some reason (and many philosophical discussions after that!), we decided to follow the advice of some other travellers who were arriving. They said we had to go to Prague. So we went, and they were right. Despite (and because of) the recent Velvet Revolution, Prague was still a city like any other we had seen so far: no McDonalds, no English Spoken, no cookies or chocolate bars on the regular supermarket shelves. No West. Instead, the feeling that we were making a journey into a magical place: the Slavia Cafe, the Staré Mesto (Old Town) main square, the wooden toys on children’ stores, the faces, the domes, the bridges, the atmosphere. Things were never the same again. We had just found that, rather than going, travelling was about being. In this story I had the pleasure to have a helpful collaboration of one of the fellows of my first adventure. Thanks. They were moments to remember for live.
11/11/08
Best view. Hong Kong. China
Hong Kong is a city of jade during the day, it becomes a luminous pearl with a sea of lights twinkling in the streets after dark. Where is the best place to enjoy the multi-colorful scene that encompasses Hong Kong and Victoria Harbor? Victoria Peak is a good location to view its day and night scene. Being 554 meters (about 1,817.6 feet) above sea level, Victoria Peak is the highest point within Hong Kong and occupies the western part of the island. How to reach Victoria Peak? We can take the Peak Tram, a pleasant ride ascending the mountain. The tram has been in operation for over one hundred years, and to date, no accidents have ever occurred. Your journey aboard the tram will take eight minutes and upon reaching the summit you will see a seven storied building in the shape of a ship. The view is amazing! This is the ideal spot to start. Welcome to Hong Kong.
06/11/08
Chao Phraya River, Bangkok Waterways. Thailand
Choosing a photo to a new post is a difficult task. But choosing a photo from Thailand to a post is even more difficult. I decided to explore the Chao Phraya River and the importance of the river on the daily life of the Bangkok inhabitants. I fond this photo, taken on the boat, when crossing the river. A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya River and some canals on the Thon Buri side is the most pleasant way to explore the city once dubbed "Venice of the East" The majestic charm of the Chao Phraya adds perspective to your exploration of the city's premier attractions. Rivers and canals referred to maenam and khlong in Thai have always been vital forms of communication. When the capital of Thailand was moved to Bangkok in 1782 (the beginning of the Rattanakosin period), the capital was laced with canals. In the past, Bangkokians usually settled by the Chao Phraya River and gradually spread into the core of the country. The traces of the Early Rattanakosin period such as architecture and traditional ways of life have been left by the river more than in the inland areas. Besides, waterways at that time were the most important means of transportation and trading as well. Nowadays, even though Bangkok has become a modern city, the Chao Phraya River as well as the canals are still charming for whoever wishes to seek the peaceful atmosphere amidst bustling Bangkok. The river is necessary for everything, but firstly for the traffic of goods and people. In fact the ferry boat public transport system in the river is essential to all. You find them every 500 meters on the riverside. They simply cross the river from one side to the other and ask you the modest fee of 2 Baht per person. On several places along the river you find the "boat people", living permanently in their old and simple boats on the river. The "boat people" are very poor, but it seems that they would not want to live elsewhere. They seem to belong to the river. And the river belongs (partly) to them. Going from one end of the route of the Express Boat towards the other, you will literally pass dozens of Buddhist Temples. But (luckily) still the "ultimate sight" along the Chao Phraya River is a Buddhist Temple: Wat Arun ("The Temple of Dawn"). While travelling along the Chao Phraya River the people are the most excitant. These two young Buddhist boys left the boat with us at Wat Arun. They stillness and determination had impressed me.
03/11/08
Portuguese experience in New York. EUA
Pão is not just a Portuguese restaurant, it's a cultural mission. At least that's what Franco Coelho and Jorge Neves, the owners of this handsome little corner restaurant, would like Pão to be. “Portuguese culture has not been properly exposed in New York,” they say. Both where born in Portugal and came to the United States as a teen-ager. They opened Pão in 1996 several blocks west of SoHo, a neighborhood; it turns out, where Portuguese sailors boarded at the turn of the century. Already Pão's small bar has become an after-hours home to groups of Portuguese men and women and a big NY success. The owners, with the chef, Carmen Santos, they have dug into traditional Portuguese cuisine to put together a small menu that blends classic renditions with contemporary touches. Pão means bread, and the bread here, from the Portuguese bakeries in Newark, is wonderful, especially the broa de milho, a light brown roll made of wheat and corn. Appetizers include two wonderful soups. One is caldo verde, a potato broth with shredded kale, chunks of potato and slices of linguiça, the mild Portuguese sausage. Even better is what's whimsically called stone soup, filled with red beans and smoked meats, which give the broth a lingering smoky flavor. Grilled squid, in wide slices rather than rings, is light and full of flavor. It's served in a lemon-and-mustard sauce. A traditional dish, clams, cockles and shrimp, steamed in white wine and garlic and served in a polished copper cauldron, is great but maybe too salty for the Americans. Service is disarmingly casual. Try to ordered linguiça assada. The waiter will arrive with the linguiça in a plate, ignited the brandy with fire, placed the sausage over the flame and retreated. The sausage cooked, and cooked, and cooked, and is delicious. It will seemed charming rather than annoying, because the sausage is so tasty. Main courses include a traditional recipe are available: Bacalhau, another dish given a deft modern touch, sauteed salt cod that manages to suggest salt without being salty, served with onions and potatoes or the rabbit dish, with chestnuts in wine sauce. Desserts here are not to be missed. Pudding with port-and-prune sauce is wonderful, a light, egg pudding flavored with the rich, fruity but not overly sweet sauce or the rice pudding - fabulous - full of citrus, nutmeg and cinnamon. Tables are arranged in rows in the small, rectangular dining room, which can put people close together when it's crowded. Pão Restaurant is at the 322 Spring Street, at Greenwich Street, West Village, (212) 334-5464. A Portuguese experience not to be missed.
24/10/08
Orange tunnel at Fushimi Inari Taisha. Kyoto, Japan
Japan, again, to display of my favorites sites - Fushimi Inari Taisha (or Fushimi Inari Shrine). Fushimi Inari Shrine is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the god of rice, sake, and prosperity. "Fushimi" is simply the location, added to the name to distinguish it from other Inari shrines. Is one of Kyoto's oldest (founded in 711 AD) and most revered Shinto shrines, Fushimi Inari serves as the headquarters for all the 40,000 shrines dedicated to Inari across Japan. Originally the god of rice, Inari now governs the modern equivalent: success and prosperity in business. Fushimi Inari Shrine draws thousands of businessmen and trades people seeking blessings for their enterprises, especially at the first prayers of the New Year. Fushimi Inari is noted for its remarkable sight of some 10,000 small torii (shrine gates) that arch over a long path up the hill behind the shrine. It takes about two hours to walk along the whole trail, but the experience is unique since it seams like we are walking in to a gigantic, endless orange tunnel. Donated and inscribed by businesses and individuals thankful for their prosperity, the long tunnel of torii is one of the most iconic visions of Kyoto. If possible, visit Furshimi Inari early in the morning since it is genuine worship place and is open since dark. That was what I did, and I felt wander walking alone through the tunnels of torii in the quiet woods. It is a magical experience: as the daylight start, the fresh fog vanishes in to the woods. Foxes are said to be the messengers of Inari, and stern bronze foxes (kitsune) can be seen throughout the shrine. Inari's foxes are generally considered helpful, but they have also been said to bewitch people. The keys that some of them hold in their mouths are for the rice granaries.
20/10/08
A-Ma Temple. Macau, China
Approximately four hundred years ago the Portuguese landed on a sea promontory near a temple. They asked the local inhabitants the name of the land, but the locals misunderstood, thinking that the Portuguese were asking for the name of the temple. So they answered 'Ma Ge', which was the name of the temple. Later, the Portuguese translated the named into 'Macau' and used it to refer to the land. In actuality, this temple is one of the three famous Buddha halls in Macau- the A-Ma Temple. It wasn’t just for this story, but the A-Ma temple was my favorite place in Macau when I visit it. The A-Ma Temple, located in the southeast of the Macau Peninsula, is the oldest temple in Macau. It was constructed in the year of 1488 of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) to commemorate Mazu, the sacred sea goddess who blesses the fishermen of Macau. It is said that the goddess was called Lin Mo, and that she was born in Putian City, Fujian Province, and was more intelligent than other children her age. She could predict good or ill luck and after her death she often helped merchants and fishermen ward off calamities and turn danger into safety. The A-Ma Temple is a destination offering silence and spectacular views. The temple contains six main parts, all of which make up a series of classical Chinese architectural treasures, and this is all guarded by stone lions. Entering the temple and going across a gateway, you will reach the Hongren Hall by a winding path. A statue of Mazu is worshipped here, and it is believed that the hall has the longest history in the complex. Going ahead, the Hall of Avalokitesvara will present itself to visitors. It was constructed mainly using bricks and stone in a simple style. Compared with the other halls, the Zhengjiao Chanlin (a Buddhist hall) was designed tastefully both in regards to size and architectural style. Containing not only an ancient architectural complex, the temple also possesses a measure of the rich and profound Chinese culture. It is worth your while to stay and enjoy the various poems and inscriptions carved on the stone along the cliff. Furthermore, each year, on the days of the birthday of Mazu and the Chinese New Year, many male and female disciples gather here. They burn lots of incense to pay homage and pray for good fortune. I’ left a written wish too, but it is still incomplete. I think I have to return and ask Mazu to remember it.
16/10/08
A taste of colour. Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is a central European city lying between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, in a basin where the Ljubljanica River flows into the Sava. Ljubljana as a city made to the measure of man. It is classified as a mid-sized European city, but it has preserved its small-town friendliness and relaxed atmosphere while providing all the facilities of a modern capital, and a very unique city dotted with pleasant picturesque places where you can expect all kinds of nice little surprises. During winter, its dreamy central European character prevails, and during summer its relaxed Mediterranean feel. Due to its geographical position, Ljubljana is also a perfect base for exploring the many faces and beauties of Slovenia, specially the natural beauty and cultural. Ljubljana's present appearance is partly due to the Italian Baroque and partly to Art Nouveau, which found expression in numerous buildings constructed after the earthquake of 1895. In the second half of the 20th century, it was the world famous architect Jože Plečnik that put an indelible personal stamp on his native Ljubljana. The city's appearance was further shaped by his students and a new wave of renowned young Slovenian architects. One of my favorite’s buildings is the well preserved Cooperative Business Bank building, located in the Miklošičeva Ulica Street. It is one of Ljubljana's most famous buildings. Despite being situated in a brightly coloured Art Nouveau quarter, its richly decorated facade makes it stand out from the surrounding buildings. Built in 1921 to a design by the architect Ivan Vurnik, it is considered to be one of the finest examples of Slovenian national style architecture. The inside of the building boasts a large reception hall with wall paintings and a glass ceiling constructed from small blue squares of glass with an inbuilt decorative strip made from various coloured bottles. The staircase hall on the first and second floors is decorated with stained glass windows depicting geometric motifs. The building's facade frescoes and interior wall paintings are the work of the architect Vurnik's Viennese-born wife Helena, who had taken part in her husband's research and design of distinctive Slovenian architecture. Her geometric ornaments in red, white and blue, the colour combination of the Slovenian tricolour, are mixed with elements of Slovenian iconography, such as stylized spruce-wooded and cornfield landscapes, vine plants and women in Slovenian national costumes.
13/10/08
Rønne like a “Lego” city. Island of Bornholm, Denmark
At the easternmost point of Denmark, we find the group of islands called “Ertholmene”, which are probably known better under the name of the largest one, Bornholm. When we look at a map of Bornholm we will se a lot of towns. That’s not exactly truth! Most of those are small fishing hamlets with only a few houses, and some others, a bit larger towns with lots of life. Each small place has its own history - perhaps it is attached to a church, the harbor or perhaps just a crossroads. Nevertheless they all reveal the past where we sense a special spirit. Bornholm has much to offer. I went there in 1993 and had the chance to explore it by myself. I enjoy the atmosphere from the calm but still active towns, also the beautiful agricultural landscape, and all the small beaches and dirty small roads to get there, where a bicycle is essential. If you come by ship from main land to Bornholm, you will arrive in Rønne Harbour at the foot of St Nicolai Church, where this photo was taken. The harbour is the biggest one of Bornholm and lively frequented by ferries, fishing boats and cargo vessels. Here, the sea and land mix air with each other. I took a walk on the cobbles in the quiet streets of the old part of the town behind the church. Rønne is a "garden town" it seams like a “Lego” toy city. Behind the half-timbered houses and walls you find both back gardens and big gardens. It can be difficult to see these gardens from the street, but you can smell the many lilacs and fruit trees, hear the bird life and sense the peace between the houses and gardens. I notice a funny thing: In many of the small windows, the natives of Bornholm show their porcelain figures, handmade glass or knick-knacks of special importance. This porcelain figures represents a personal signal to you from each window. Since ages, Rønne has also been the cultural capital of the island and still today. Rønne offers many restaurants and cafés and several hotels. In short distance from the town centre, it is possible to get sand under our feet. The town has a very nice sandy beach, which stretches both to the south and to the north. Scarcely 2 km north of St. Torv, we will find the Antoinette beach, which is very popular with the beach boys of the town. Just 1 km south of the town centre, at the nice open natural resort of Galløkken, there is another one. This stretches about 30-35 km along the south coast of the island to Nexø. By Galløkken and Antoinette beaches we have two good camping sites, which attract many guests during the summer. Just south of the town, between the citadel and Galløkken, the youth hostel where I stayed. We won't find anything like it anywhere else in Denmark. (www.holiday.bornholm.info)
10/10/08
Banana’s girl. Goa, India
In the morning
she was there when we went to beach
in the afternoon
she was there when we went way
meanwhile
the same bananas where in her hands
perseverance, patience, hope?
at the way home
we bought from her the bananas
we receive a nice smile in return
a smile for tree bananas! fare enough
but not just.
She went home too.
she was there when we went to beach
in the afternoon
she was there when we went way
meanwhile
the same bananas where in her hands
perseverance, patience, hope?
at the way home
we bought from her the bananas
we receive a nice smile in return
a smile for tree bananas! fare enough
but not just.
She went home too.
09/10/08
Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium
I just arrive from Brussels this morning. So, I still have fresh in my memory the grey raining day I left behind. But Brussels is a bit more. To honor that, I decide to post a photo from the “Grote Markt” in Dutch or “Grand Place” in French - the central market square of Brussels. It is surrounded by guild houses, the city's Town Hall and the Bread House. The square is the most important tourist destination, one of the most memorable landmarks in Brussels and, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful squares in the world. A bit of history: The Town Hall was constructed between 1402 and 1455. The original architect was probably Jacob van Thienen. At the top of the 97 meter (318 feet) tower stands a statue of St. Michael, the patron of Brussels. In the 13th century the predecessor of the Bread House was a wooden building where bakers sold their bread in a covered market. Its Dutch name Broodhuis recalls this function. It was replaced in the 15th century by a stone building for the administration of the duke of Brabant. When the duchy fell to the Habsburgs, the Maison du Duc (Duke's house) became the Maison du Roi (King's house), the latter being the current French name of the building. Charles V rebuilt the building in a late Gothic style during his reign in the 16th century, similar to its appearance today. In 1873, the city entrusted architect Victor Jamaer to restore the battered structure in neo-gothic style. The Grand Place was first laid out after the construction of the town hall, at the centre of the city's commercial district. Neighboring streets still reflect the area's origins, named after the sellers of butter, cheese, herring, and coal and so on. The original Grand Place was a medley of buildings constructed between the 15th and 17th centuries in a variety of styles. Then we had some wars, some fires, and today, we still have this wonderful place. The Grand Place was named by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1998, and it definitely a place to see. The funny thing is that, the square has two types of visitors during the day! In the morning, the Benelux type: following the umbrella guide, groups of tourist (from all over the world) enter in the Square for a quick look and a fast explanation. After buying a small box of Belgium chocolate, they cross the square to see the Manekin Pis and they run in to their buses, and leave to the Atomiun, also for a quick look, since they have to move to the Netherlands and also Luxembourg, everything in five days. Then, we have the other kind! After seven o’clock in the afternoon, with all the meetings done, and all the EU institutions closed, the “national delegations” come for a beer at “Roy de Belge”. In a more relaxed way, they enjoy the square at the night light before leave to their “capitals”. This brief moment make the difference once they leave home without the impression that Belgium is only the EU meeting rooms at Rue de la Loi.
02/10/08
Over the river Maas. Maastricht, The Netherlands
Maastricht is located in the south of the Netherlands, close to Liege. It has a more southern, relaxed atmosphere than other parts of The Netherlands, and attracts many international tourists not only for its rich history (founded by the Romans) but also for its beauty. The city center is split in two by the river Maas, with the train station located in the smaller part of the center. The centre of the city is especially attractive, due to its wealth of historic buildings; some 1450 monuments are protected by law. Care is taken that both new and renovated buildings maintain the period atmosphere of their surroundings. Because of its heritage value, the whole of Maastricht city centre has been declared a 'protected area'. The history of Maastricht goes back to c. 50 B.C., when the Romans built a settlement by the main road, near a ford in the river. This makes Maastricht the oldest city of the Netherlands. The city's name is derived from the Latin 'Mosae Trajectum', the site where the river Maas could be crossed. This settlement grew to become a walled castellum, which was abandoned towards the end of the fourth century A.D. Maastricht had its first outer walls built in 1229. Before long the town was felt to be too cramped, and at the beginning of the 14th century construction work on a new series of walls was commenced. The city was important strategically, and had to withstand many attacks during its history. For the most of the Europeans, Maastricht means – Treaty of Maastricht – an important step in the construction of the modern Europe. I went there for work, but of course, I found a few minute to see the city and relax. There are many opportunities to just relax or to shop in one of many small streets with nice tourist shops and little pubs. No other Dutch city has so many bars per square kilometer!
30/09/08
A dream comes true. Ayer’s Rock, Australia
I visited Australia in 2001. Like most of the travelers I stayed for a wile. The trip to the red Australia desert – the outback – has they called there, was fantastic, an experience of a life time. This picture speaks for it self. I bought this painting in the streets of Ayer’s Rock and this photo came stamped to the painting proving the origin and certifying the author. The Aborigines who live in the Western Desert of Australia make wonderful paintings. These paintings, filled with wavy lines, circles, and curves, are decorated with hundreds of small dots. To outsiders, the pictures are beautiful patterns filled with color. But to the Aborigines, these patterns tell stories. The stories are about their ancestors from long ago. The stories are called Dreamings. Dreamings are an important part of the values and beliefs of the Aborigines. The stories told by the paintings are so special that not just any artist can paint any story. Each artist can only paint the stories that have been passed down to him or her. This painting was this lady dream. For me, at the same time, went to Australia was a dream comes true of my childhood. I still have it, and I shall keep it, in my living room as memory of bough dreams.
26/09/08
Coincidence or a joke from the gods. Kyoto, Japan.
Kyoto is the heart of traditional Japan. Here we can fill the extraordinary taste of Japan, even in the right sense of the word! The food is excellent. In the city of Kyoto, we can rest in the shade of Buddhist temples that have stood for over a thousand years, hanging around in the streets marked by the traditions of times, visit the old samurai castles, or just peruse the offerings of the ultramodern department stores. You can join in the time-honored tea ceremony in one of the tradition gardens or unwind with a cup of coffee at a fashionable café downtown. But the idea that only in Kyoto is it possible to cross paths with a real geisha as you stop for a snack at a convenient store is not absolutely true. Let’s go back for my first days in Japan… The second day in Tokyo wakes up with rain and from the top of my hotel room, I realize a grey and sad Tokyo. Definitely this was not a good day for a walk in the city. At eleven o’clock in the morning, I was brave enough to leave the hotel and face the day with my camera in the box, thinking…today is a bad day for photographs even with the cherry blossoms. I took the direction of Shinagawa train station to catch the JR Yamanote Line, the circular Tokyo line. The imaginable happens! At the entrance of the train station, two beautiful geishas (in fact a geisha and a maiko, a geisha apprentice, as I learned afterwards) where there standing, waiting for a taxi and for my shot. It was like a miracle. But the best is yet to come. After two weeks of traveling in Japan I arrive to Kyoto, and like all travelers, even with my Tokyo geishas in my computer, I had the expectation of seeing and photograph a few more. I did. What I didn’t expect was seeing the same girl I saw in Tokyo at the Shinagawa train station in that raining day. This photo is this special moment. For a country with 128 millions of inhabitants (343 for each km2) it is something unreal. Like a friend of my used to say, just a coincidence or a joke from the gods.
24/09/08
Perito Moreno Glacier. El Calafate, Argentina
Perito Moreno Glacier was the most beautiful natural site I ever visited. It is located within The Glaciers National Park and was declared "World Natural Patrimony of the Humanity". Its front covers 5 kilómetres and it has almost 80 metres of hight above sea level. Ice blocks of different sizes are constantly coming off the glacier and falling into the waters of the Argentine lake causing astounding sounds and impressive waves over the surface, turning this moment into an unforgettable spectacle. This glacier is one of the few ones in the world that is in constant development. Several lacustrine and terrestrial visits can be done. This photo was taken from the Lago Argentina, as far as I could reach from the ice. In the spot, the dimension is impressive and difficult to describe. Within the park, located at 80 km. from the locality of El Calafate, the tourist can visit other nearby glaciers and take part in varied activities, like walk on its surface being in close contact with the glacier ice, meeting its inner peaks and ponds.
23/09/08
Full of hope. Aswan, south Egypt
Today, I paid tribute to a visit to this Nubian village and to Nubian People in Egypt. Nubians are the people of northern Sudan and southern Egypt. The Nubians are believed to be the first human race on earth, and most of their customs and traditions were adopted by the ancient Egyptians. This girl and her family where forced to change their homes from their original village in south Egypt to a tiny island in the middle of the river Nile caused by the construction of the Aswan Dam. Today, this small island is pot of Nubian culture, where they rebuild all their traditions. This photo was taken in 24th June 1997, more than 10 years ago. I wonder where she is now.
22/09/08
COLORS 74 – Victims. Sichuan province, China
For the fist time in this diary, I’m not using a photo taken in one of my trips. When I saw this picture I felt I had to share it, for the strong symbolism, but also for is beauty. On May 12, 2008, a 8.0 magnitude earthquake hit the Sichuan province of China. The epicenter was 80 kilometers west-northwest of Chengdu with a depth of 19 kilometers. According to China’s State Seismological Bureau, at the time of printing over 11,380 aftershocks had been recorded. The earthquake devastated eight provinces: Sichuan, Gansu, Shaanxi, Chongqing, Yunnan, Shanxi, Guizhou and Hubei. The total damages are estimated to exceed US$20 billion. According to official figures, the quake caused 69,181 known deaths, 68,620 of which were in Sichuan province. 17,686 people were listed as missing, and 374,061 as injured. About 4.8 million people were left homeless, although the number could be as high as 11 million. Millions of livestock and a significant amount of agriculture were also destroyed, including 12.5 million animals. Colors Magazine stated a campaign with a powerful message to this disaster but also to the word. This fantastic photo taken by Erik Ravelo for Fabrica (Benetton’s communication research centre) teaches us that there is another way of looking at tragedy. Can two peoples – seemingly destined to be enemies – share a common hope? More than a magazine, Colors 74 – Victims is a symbolic gesture which attempts to unite where there is only division, to make peace where the only urge is to fight. This issue is divided into five chapters which follow the timeline of the earthquake and rescue operations. The photos, too, follow the same chronological order and portray the same stages, highlighting the distinguishing moments. It is inspired by the meaning and design of traditional Tibetan prayer flags and its principal intention is to promote peace, harmony and hope. The sheets can be cut and hung as prayer flags in the wind. According to Tibetan tradition, this will help to fulfill the prayers and the pleas found throughout the magazine, including your own prayers on the blank pages provided. Sacred words and symbols are printed on these pages. Be respectful, don’t throw the magazine away. Don’t trash it. Don’t forget it in a drawer. If you really can’t stand it anymore, go and burn it in the garden and the smoke will deliver the blessings to the sky. Thirty Tibetan monks have agreed to dedicate their prayers to the victims of the earthquake that recently terrorized the Sichuan province of China. From Italy to India, the U.S. to Germany, Colors visited them and showed them pictures of turmoil, hope, the invincible force of nature and the indomitable spirit of those who manage to carry on with their lives. Each picture became a prayer, each prayer a gift. Colors 74 – Victims is on sale since August and available in seven languages – Tibetan, Chinese, English, Italian, French, Spanish or German – enclosed in graphic reproductions of the traditional Tibetan prayer flags, symbols of harmony and protection against danger and evil. Part of the profit will be donated to Red Cross in providing aid to the survivors of the Sichuan earthquake. The same happens with the Tibet/ China t-shirts, also on sale at the Benetton mega stores. http://www.colorsmagazine.com/victims/
19/09/08
The Caribbean Paris. Havana, Cuba
Sometime a picture can be more than a thousand words. I think this is the case. The same happens with Tomas Gutierrez Alea's film, "Memories of Underdevelopment" The film describes a man and a city torn among three cultures. The island of Cuba is located in the Caribbean; it exists among the United States, Central America, and South America. Like many other countries in Latin America, it was a possession of both American and European colonial powers and its cultural identity expresses this mixture of influences. Havana, the capital city, possesses not only a cultural, mestizo, mixture but, as expressed by Sergio (the main character of the film), a cultural confusion. Through Sergio and Pablo, Gutierrez Alea portrays a post-Revolutionary city nostalgic for its Euro-American heritage, and unsure of its new future. Sergio expresses the irony of the Revolution's so-called Cultural Revolution as reflected in Havana, by noting "Nothing has changed. At first sight it looks like a set, a cardboard city." Unlike other post-Revolutionary Latin American countries, there are no visual, architectural differences. The urban symbolism of the old Batista regime still stands prominently. They used to call it the Caribbean Paris, but not anymore. The area where this photo was taken, back in 2001, is the area where are the most colonial buildings and is the most visited area for tourists who spend a few days in Havana. Besides the evident degradation it's still one of the most beautiful spots. This beautiful city, declared as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, seems to be frozen in time for the past few decades. Foreigners can walk through the streets getting hustled by jineteros, taking pictures to the Vintage cars, baroque style buildings and beautiful courtyards, or just having a (Cristal) beer. The Havana’s atmosphere is unique. Havana’s Vieja is famous for the Catedral de San Cristoal de la Habana at the Plaza de la Catedral, and for Hemingway's bar, "La Bodeguita del Medio", where you can buy an expensive mojito. Live music is everywhere, and the Habaneros are performing their music in order to earn their daily doses of convertible pesos, so that they can buy what they need at the dollar stores to take care of their families. This is “la vida Habanera”: old American cars, cigars, rum, jineteros and an enormous amount of difficulties to run the daily life.
17/09/08
Opera at the harbor. Sydney, Australia
This morning I found at the “The Sydney Morning Herald” journal (on line version “http://www.smh.com.au/”) a very interesting discussion at the very funny traveling blog called the “Backpacker blog”. Are travel agents really necessary? This is a question that I’ve been putting to my self for long time ago. The author (Ben Groundwater) explains it better and I share is views. He point out the exact moment when we stopped using travel agents and continues (…) Up until then, I had it made. I'd pick my destination and dates, email the Hilton Hippy, and within a few hours I'd have a complete set of flight options, at the lowest possible price, plus a massively discounted travel insurance policy, visa information ... the works. Sadly, the Hippy has now passed on to the corporate world (although he can still hook a brother up with cheap flights), so organizing a holiday takes a bit more work. Still, it's easily manageable without the help (and expense) of a travel agent. Which kind a makes me wonder: are they a dying breed? A few years ago, the predictions were dire. Flight Centre and its ilk were said to be going the way of Ansett, crushed under the weight of a competitor they couldn't possibly match: in travel agents' case, the internet. If everything travel-related can be researched, booked and paid for over the internet, why bother going to a travel agent? And yet, walk down any main street or into any shopping mall, and you'll see the predictions were way off the mark. Travel agents are still kicking along; people are still using them. However, for most holidays, especially short ones, I wouldn't bother. (…) For starters, unless you know your travel agent well, you're probably going to be paying more than you should be for flights, definitely more for accommodation, and way more for insurance. In return, you get everything booked, and a nice printed itinerary in a neat little satchel. You also, however, get something of a safety net, which can be handy for inexperienced travelers. When everything goes tits up, your flights are cancelled and your hotel booking has fallen through, at least you've got someone to call who might be able to make it all better. But really, travel agents aren't necessary. In the world of travel, Google is your new best friend - check out the flights on the net, sort your visa applications online, find and book some accommodation, make sure you know the right numbers to call in the event of a stuff-up, and you should be okay. The only time I'd probably use an agent is if I was doing a multi-stop round-the-world trip, because, basically, I just couldn't be arsed figuring it all out myself. This is where travel agents are worth their weight in gold. Regardless, if you are going to use an agent - whether you're booking a year-long trip or a week in Bali - the secret is to do your research. If you've done your homework, know exactly where and when you want to go, and a ballpark figure of how much you should be spending, chances are you're going to get a good deal. The agent will appreciate having a client who knows what they're on about (rather than, "Where do you want to go?" "Oh, everywhere!"), and you'll both walk away happy. Do you use travel agents? Do you find them useful, or is it better to go it alone? If you want to contribute to the discussion, please go to Backpacker blog and drop a line at www.blogs.smh.com.au/travel/archives/2008/09/are_travel_agents_really_neces.html
15/09/08
Spectacular natural beauty. Flåm, Norway
By the time I was studying in Denmark, I had the chance to visit the so called Nordic Countries. The Nordic Rail Pass was my great tool, since was I free to discover by train or boat every single corner of these magic countries. The World famous railway and the Beautiful Flåm in Norway were part of my discoveries. Flåm is situated in the innermost part of the Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the 204 kilometers long and up to 1308 meters deep Sognefjord. Surrounded by steep mountainsides, roaring waterfalls and deep valleys, Flåm is a paradise for everyone looking for a one-of-a-kind experience with nature. With nature-based activities, many nearby attractions, exciting culture and historic traditions - Flåm is the perfect holiday spot for all! From Flåm Port and the many fjord boats it is only a short walk to a trip on the famous Flåm Railway, or maybe a stay at one of Fjord Norway's long-established tourist hotels. The world’s longest fjord adventure, the Sognefjord, lies in the heart of the Norwegian fjord country and extends more than 200 km (120 miles) inland. The region where this deep fjord meets the glaciers and Norway’s highest mountains is considered one of the world's most beautiful travel destinations. At the end of the Sognefjord you will find Flåm Camping and Youth Hostel, were I slept. This place is surrounded by the World Heritage Listed fjordlandscape of Norway. Flåm is a paradise for everyone looking for genuine natural and cultural experiences. The name "Flåm" means "little place between steep mountains," and at the end of the 1800's many cruise ships with travelers from all over the world found their way here to experience Norwegian fjords, mountains and waterfalls. After the Bergensbanen railway was opened in 1909, Flåm became a crossroad for passengers, mail and freight to and from the trains between Oslo and Bergen, in connection with the steamships on the fjord. The old Navy road from Haugastøl and Finse down to Flåm – Rallarvegen has now become an attraction in itself, with thousands of cyclists every summer and autumn. To get to Flåm we experienced the World famous railway. The over 65 year old Flåm Railway is widely known as one of the world's most fantastic stretches of railroad. On this amazing journey you will experience a climb of nearly 900 meters from fjord to mountain top, an incline of one to 18, a tunnel that twists in a spiral inside the mountain, and a view that will take your breath away! As a private branch line of the Bergensbanen railway, the Flåm Railway runs 9-10 daily departures in the high season from May to September and 4-5 daily departures the rest of the year. You can learn more about the exciting history behind this 20 kilometre long stretch of railway by visiting the Flåmsbana Museum in Flåm, a tiny little place full of nice stories.
12/09/08
Koi carp. Japan, Tokyo
Probably surprising to many westerners is the large amount of myth surrounding these beautiful fish. It is known outside Japan as the brightly colored white, golden, orange and even calico colored fish which fascinate private collectors but which can also be found in public ponds. I took this Picture in my hotel’s garden in Tokyo since we can find them everywhere. Although with a Chinese in origin, the carp in Japan is celebrated for its manly qualities. It is said to climb waterfalls bravely, and, if caught, it lies upon the cutting board awaiting the knife without a quiver - not unlike a samurai facing a sword. This theme dates back to ancient China, where a legend tells of how any koi that succeeded in climbing the falls at a point called Dragon Gate (on the Yellow River) would be transformed into a dragon. Thus it became a symbol of worldly aspiration and advancement shared by all. Eventually, the stoic fish came to be associated with so many masculine and positive qualities that it was appropriated for the annual Boys' Day Festival in Japan when colorful, streaming koi flags are traditionally displayed for each son in the family. In tattoo imagery, especially in combination with flowing water, it symbolizes much the same - courage, the ability to attain high goals, and overcoming life's difficulties. I may decide to have a carp tattoo one of these days.
10/09/08
Unstoppable sunset. Golf of Finland, Sweden/ Finland
A few years ago I took an overnight boat to Turku, Finland, from Stockholm, Sweden. Sometimes, taking a boat is just a mean of transportation, something that we have to do to reach a specific place. In the Golf of Finland, is something more. At the time, I was amazed with the boat, since it was a large ferry, more like a cruise ship, or a floating commercial moll, with glass elevators and fancy stores. Even with all this extreme luxury, I was traveling with a Nordic Rail Pass, so the price was not much. The boat leaves Stockholm in the end of the afternoon and arrives to Finland – Turku, in the morning. The ferry ride was absolutely spectacular with a perfect sunset across the Gulf of Finland. The sea is very calm and quit, and on the way, we see always land or little islands. Charming red and yellow wood paneled houses rest on small rock islands, with only the sea’s pounding waves to remind us of their impermanence Each little island viewed from the deck of the ferry liner offers a glimpse into how the Finnish live, and it isn’t until Turku comes into view that the pulse of Finland’s atmosphere can be felt. At about 9 pm I was laid down on a deck long chair watching the story-book island vistas go by completed by a background of a perpetual sunset. Small villages were tucked away on the archipelago, all with sailing boats parked in their docks and once it got dark their lights made it all the more magical. Apart from the cold breeze, I stand outside with my camera to catch the magical moment of this photography. I managed to scrape together a few precious hours sleep on the ferry before making into Turku in Finland by 8 am. Once there, I caught the bus into the fresh looking local town square that had a massive market bustling. I felt the atmosphere of a revolution, that, in the end, was just the evidences of a long party night celebrating the Labor’s Days (1st of May): empty bottles on the ground, people slipping on the gardens and, still, open bars for the last beer. About the unknown Turku! I must say that the riverside city is the oldest in Finland and was once the country’s capital city. It boasts a beautiful medieval castle, the impressive Luostarinmaki Handicrafts Museum, a fine cathedral and stylish boat restaurants. Don’t miss the four museum ships anchored on the banks of the Aurajoki River in the city center. The beautiful Sigyn in particular is well worth a visit. The Sibelius Museum is the most comprehensive musical museum in Finland exhibiting memorabilia of the famous Finnish composer Jean Sibelius and showcasing more than 300 musical instruments from around the world. One of the most superb archipelagos in Europe opens up from the coast of Turku and stretches way out into the Baltic Sea. Take a boat from Turku and enjoy a day trip around the islands or, for a more unusual experience, enjoy a meal at one of the floating restaurants on the Aurajoki River or around the kauppatori (market square) back on dry land or even take in a performance of the Turku Philharmonic Orchestra – one of the oldest in Europe – at the Concert Hall. That’s your choice, but, please, don’t miss it.
08/09/08
Cruising the 'River of Gold'. Douro, Portugal
The Douro River and its Valley is one of the most beautiful, unspoilt and fascinating regions of Europe - so much so that the valley has been declared a Unesco world heritage site. The River Douro rises in Spain and flows more or less East – West across Northern Portugal reaching the sea at Portugal’s second city, Oporto. Once a fast flowing river of rapids and narrow ravines it has been tamed over the past 25 years by the construction of 8 dams along its length giving it, in most places, a tranquil, lake-like appearance. The valley is spectacularly beautiful with the hills falling steeply down to the water´s edge becoming more and more sparsely populated and wild the further inland one travels, with more of the land being given over to terraces of vines and, to a lesser extent, olive groves. This is port country and was, in fact, the world’s first demarcated wine region being established in 1756. Evidence of the port industry can be seen along the valley with all the famous company names – Cockburn’s, Taylor’s, Sandeman and others – appearing on large placards on the hillsides. The colour of the land changes throughout the year as the vines mature and the nature grows. February and March though also see the almond trees in blossom, June-July, the green of the vignards is remarcable, September – October, the reds and browns are the kings. Generally, though, there is little in the way of developed tourism, visitors are comparatively few and, as far as crowds are concerned, getting around is fairly easy. However, the roads zigzagging up and down the mountainsides and between the tributary valleys can be difficult driving but it does offer fantastic unspoilt scenery. More relaxing modes of transport are available, however. A good way to visit it is by a river cruise. This option combines delightful scenery with rural, unspoilt villages and towns and an opportunity to visit the great cities of Porto. In the way it is also possible to visit restored palaces, places of pilgrimage, cultural centers and vineyards. A boat journey takes you on a wonderfully scenic path, through deep cleft gorges terraced with thousands of vineyards, past sleepy fishing villages and through a tranquil countryside of almond and citrus trees. Apart from the port, the excellent Douro wines, both white and red, make excellent accompaniments to the food of the region. Whilst fresh fish is readily available (just as it is everywhere in Portugal) here the meats of the interior start to come into their own with excellent smoked hams and some spicy sausages.
05/09/08
Uniquely Singapore. Little India, Singapore
If there is one word that best captures Singapore, it is “unique”. A dynamic city rich in contrast and colors. Singapore is a harmonious blend of cultures, cuisines, arts and architectures, inspired by Asia. Brimming with unbridled energy, this little dynamic place in Southeast Asia embodies the finest of both East and West. Even If you only have a single day, a visit to Singapore will take you from the past to the future, from exotic ethnic enclave to efficient business centre, from serene gardens to sleek skyscrapers. The earliest known mention of Singapore was a 3rd century Chinese account which described Singapore as "Pu-luo-chung" ("island at the end of a peninsula"). Little is known about the island's history at that time but this matter-of-fact description belies Singapore's colourful past. By the 14th century, Singapore had become part of the mighty Sri Vijayan Empire and was known as Temasek ("Sea Town"). Located at the natural meeting point of sea routes at the tip of the Malay Peninsula, Singapore had long known visits from a wide variety of sea craft, from Chinese junks, Indian vessels, Arab dhows and Portuguese battleships to Bulginess schooners. During the 11th century, this small but strategically-placed island had earned a new name - "Singa Pura" ("Lion City"). According to legend, a visiting Sri Vijayan prince saw an animal he mistook for a lion and Singapore's modern day name was born. The British provided the next notable chapter in the Singapore story. During the 18th century, they saw the need for a strategic "halfway house" to refit, feed and protect the fleet of their growing empire, as well as to forestall any advances by the Dutch in the region. Five centuries later, it was again the scene of significant fighting during World War II. Singapore was considered an impregnable fortress, but the Japanese overran the island in 1942. After the war, Singapore became a Crown Colony. The growth of nationalism led to self-government in 1959 and on 9 August 1965, Singapore became an independent republic. In just 150 years, Singapore has grown into a thriving centre of commerce and industry. Its former role as an entrecote has diminished, as the nation has increased its manufacturing base. Singapore is the busiest port in the world with over 600 shipping lines sending super tankers, container ships and passenger liners to share the busy waters with coastal fishing vessels and wooden lighters. One of the world's major oil refining and distribution centers, Today, Singapore is a major supplier of electronic components and a leader in shipbuilding and repairing. It has also become one of the most important financial centers of Asia, with more than 130 banks. Business dealings are facilitated by Singapore's superb communications network which links the nation to the rest of the world via satellite, 24-hour telegraph and telephone systems. But what most surprised me besides this entire amazing story, and today’s technologies, were the Ethnic quarters, that stills exists today as they were in the past: Little India, Chinatown and Geylang Serai, the cultural heart of the Malay community in Singapore. As you step into Little India, be prepared for an assault on the senses! You will be greeted by the strong, heady scent of spices and jasmine garlands, followed by the treasure trove of silverware, brassware, wood carvings and colorful silk saris, dazzling to behold. The first Indian settlers in Singapore arrived with Sir Stamford Raffles as assistants and soldiers back in 1819. In the late 19th century, many more Indian immigrants arrived to find work, be it as laborers to build roads or to take up key positions in the civil service. Today, Little India is the focal point of Singapore's Indian community. From the large Tekka Centre and Little India Arcade to the small provision shops, Little India is packed with interesting things to discover. During Deepavali (usually between Oct/Nov), the Indian Festival of Lights, Little India is transformed into a fairyland of gaily decorated, brightly lit streets bustling with shoppers. Witness also the faith of devotees during the colourful and ritualistic Thaipusam in Jan/Feb each year. Colorful temples like this one in the photo co-exist side by side with churches and mosques, parrot fortune tellers stationed by the five-foot way and tantalizing scents of spices drifting out from restaurants. Don’t leave Little India without a temporary Henna tattoo or try “Teh Tarik”, a hand pulled cup of tea. (www.visitsingapore.com).
03/09/08
The Patagonia lands: from Argentina to Chile
This photo is from Patagonia lands, from the road that leads to the border of Chile, not far from Puerto Natales. This is the place where the geography of the big spaces has a lot to say. Patagonia is the wild, wind swept region of southern Argentina and Chile that makes up the southern cone of the South American continent. Chile’s portion of Patagonia is even more inhabitable. Mountains and glaciers crash into each amid sheltered bays and lush green forests. The southern half is unconnected by road from the north, therefore ferries, planes, or a detour into Argentina is necessary if traveling the length of the region. You can traverse the northern half along the Carretera Austral, the wild highway that is impassable for much of the year that passes through temperate rainforest, snow covered mountains, and glaciers. The distances are enormous, the winds are free to run and our spirits felt the same, a huge space to breath.
01/09/08
Seascape in the Atlantic Ocean, Berlengas Islands, Portugal
Seascape is beautiful everywhere we go. If your guess about this photo is Thailand or some tropical place of the south in a rainy day, you are totally wrong! This photo was taken in my way to a small group of islands known has Estelas, part of the Berlengas Archipelago. The Berlengas Archipelago is a group of very small islands off the Portuguese coast near the city of Peniche, at 10 to 15 km. In the larger island (Berlenga Grande) there is an ancient fort and a lighthouse. Nowadays, the archipelago has no permanent population. The ancient defense fort is now partially converted into a simple rest house. As the archipelago has been declared a reservation area due to the local fauna (sea birds, mostly), it is only visited by scientists and, in the summer, by a small number of tourists, mostly divers enthusiasts. Berlenga Grande, or just Ilha da Berlenga, is the most visited by all. It is a small territory with is 1500 meters per 800 meters at 85 meters high. In this small island there are two small beaches and several caves, its waters are very clean with barrier reefs and vibrant marine life. Part of the island was ripped off in the past, forming a separated part of the island called Ilha Velha (Old Island). In the summer, the island becomes filled with various sorts of flowers and birds. This territory is now under strict rules of preservation, once it a National Natural Park. I use to go there with my friends at least once per year when I was a kid. The ferry was really an adventure for all, since the Atlantic sea is strong. The most part of the time, after passing the protection of the Carvoeiro Cape, the famous Caboavelar Pessoa (the only old ferry) start moving with the waves and everybody get sea sick. Now is different, several companies are available to get to Berlengas, safe and comfortable. Last year I was lucky to go to the island with group of sea divers and visit the small Estelas, a place not easy to get by a common visitor.
29/08/08
San Juan Chamula. Chiapas, México
One of the reasons I start this journal is because the world is big but full of special and interesting places. Each place has for each person a special effect a special pleasure or a special story. I already mentioned a few of those places that, to me, have this special effect. For its singularity, San Juan Chamula, is one of those places. The Chamulas people have always been a fiercely independent people. As part of the Tzotzil community, they resisted the Spanish upon their arrival in 1524 and later staged a famous rebellion in 1869, attacking the nearby colonial settlement of San Cristobal. The small town, about 10km (6 miles) from San Cristobal, is a key attraction as part of a tour of local villages around San Cristobal, and is best experienced with the help of a local guide, who can give insight and local knowledge that will help you to make some sense of the distinct culture and customs practiced here. Like neighboring Zinacatan the Chamulas are also enjoy being a private people; like other indigenous communities in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they wear: in this case distinctive purples and pinks predominate. All the clothes they wear are hand made locally. The wool on the sheep, cleaning, dyes and knitting are all obtained "in-house": nothing is purchased externally. Sheep are sacred here: they are treated, protected and mourned on passing as any other member of the family. If you are driving through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander into the road. More than anywhere else in this region - you must take extreme care with your photography here. I never experienced nothing like this before. It is completely prohibited to take photographs inside any church, or of any ritual or any religious leader or healer. The least that will happen is that you will have fresh produce hurled at you and your camera; you can also have your camera confiscated, be fined and even imprisoned. The warnings are not lip service - these people are serious about their privacy. I never had this feeling before. The (legal) photos I was able to take from the outside church, have a unique value and are an extraordinary memory of this trip.
27/08/08
O que é que a Baiana tem? Salvador, Brazil
Sorry for the Portuguese title of the photo from the popular music of Carmen Miranda (in English should be something like “What does the Baiana have?”). Salvador, from the historic name, São Salvador da Baía de Todos os Santos, in English: "Holy Savior of All Saints' Bay", is a city on the northeast coast of Brazil and the capital of the Northeastern Brazilian state of Bahia. Salvador is also known as Brazil's capital of happiness due to its easygoing population and countless popular outdoor parties, including its street carnival. In Salvador - the African soul of Brazil - the descendants of slaves preserved their cultural roots more than anywhere else in the New World. The result is a magnificent place, with hypnotic drum beats, graceful movement, fragrant spices, inherent sensuality and axé : divine energy that brings good luck and positive results. Salvador combines all these elements in wild festivals, including Brazil's hottest Carnaval. But even on ordinary days you can come across a capoeira (martial art/dance) circle, munch acarajé (bean and shrimp dumplings fried in dendê oil) done by a beautiful Baiana like this one in the photo I took back in 2005 on the street, and witness a Candomblé follower possessed by an African deity. Do you still need to ask “O que é que a Baiana tem?”
25/08/08
My favorite sunset. Formentera, Spain
I’m back from the paradise. Formentera proved, again, to be an extraordinary summer holiday spot. My days in Formentera were days lived in a slower and quieter world. The beach is astonishing as it is the relaxing atmosphere lived everywhere in the island. In my opinion, one of the best strips of sand is in the western part, at Playa Illetas, now a very well preserved National Park. In Playa des Illetas is also where it stands one of the best beachfront bars known here as chiringuitos: Big Sur. In the late afternoon, when the sun is lower and less intense, the ambience at Big Sur is remarkable. This is the Beach where to enjoy the most exclusive sunset and undoubtedly in Formentera dancing on the modern music rhythm. The Big Sur is located at the beginning of les Illetas beach, and it is one of the most popular and trendy beach bars on the island. Unfortunately, it can be so crowded that you cannot even move, and you have to queue for a cocktail. But don’t worry you still have all the beach to yourself. Since this bar is very trendy (and posh), a lot of yachts stops here at sunset time for an aperitif. Take note that Formentera is famous because of its aperitif beach bars. Big Sur is known for the quality of all successes got during time thanks to people and tendences. In fact it’s said in several magazines and newspapers, that Big Sur is one of the most successful European summer places. Numberless of most famous international D.J.s who have played here making dance many people, appreciated the marvelous sunset too! A good choice is also the Blue Bar, a chilled-out restaurant/bar on Platja Mitjorn, with a D.J. set up in the sand playing ambient reggae music, and picnic tables and lounge chairs by the water, the clientele was mostly handsome 30-something couples with children. This one is for another photo.
01/08/08
Blue waters bridge. Formentera, Spain
Today, the Tricky Traveler Journal is celebrating is fist month. One month is little, but, nevertheless, we had the chance to cross twenty one photos in fourteen different countries, not counting with the patterns gallery. But other thing is happen today. Tricky Traveler is going to traveler! So, in order to commemorate such big events and also to promote some jealousy, I let you one more photo of the paradise: Formentera, witch is exactly where I’m going. I will be back soon with more stories and photos from our beautiful world.
31/07/08
Child Of The Universe. Bali, Indonesia
Child Of The Universe
The universe exploded,
The universe exploded,
A piece became the earth.
I rode in on a meteror,
Its crash was my birth.
Lava took me for a ride,
To cool in the sea.
I waited for millions of years,
For nature to use me.
I became a child of the universe,
With no place to go.
Then God gave life a meaning,
That's how I got my soul.
L. C. Brown
L. C. Brown
28/07/08
Esna from the past. Esna, Egypt
In 1997 I did a study trip to Egypt with a group of 29 stagiares from the European Commission. In our group, we had nice Australian fellow (nicked name as the Antipodean), who had the energy to write a trip diary. Allow me to share a few parts of it. Before that, simply words about Esna: The present Egyptian village of Esna, which was ancient Iunyt or Ta-senet (from which the Coptic Sne and Arabic Isna derive), was built in the area of ancient Latopolis and is the site of a major temple dedicated to the god Khnum. Under the Greeks and Romans, the city became the capital of the Third Nome of Upper Egypt. Besides Khnum, the temple was dedicated to several other deities, the most prominent of whom were Neith and Heka. Esna is located on the Nile about fifty kilometers south of Luxor. The temple now stands in the middle of the modern town at a level about nine meters below that of the surrounding grounds and the temple Khnum is the major (unique) attraction of Esna.
Monday 23, June 1997, Esna:
If paradise is desert and 40º, then we are in heaven. But by “paradise” I mean in a socio-cultural sense, enthusiasm, energy and harsh reality in stark contrast to the scorched Earth (10 mm of rain every 5 years). Esna, is not a big village, but is the village where many of the river boats come to roost. The river boats themselves have flat bottoms and dock next to each other, so you have to often walk through many boats before you get to your own. The boats resemble hotels – huge chandeliers, kitch décor, and Italian furniture, but these were no match for the psychedelic fountain on the Nile Crown. We set off to explore the old word, but it come to us; drivers, traders and kids. One man offered 2 billion camels for one girl – there were 24 women to 5 men on the bout – so this seemed a good deal, especially as we had a few to spare. It was an offer we were to decline many times during the trip. Many kids followed us and asked for “baksheesh” the ancient a noble art of tipping in Egypt – we were become very accustomed to this practice. We were cut off in the streets by “kalesh” drivers seeking a fare (taxi drivers in a horse and carriage) and everyone jostled for a piece of the tourist action. Just outside our boat 3 men smoked a water pipe called a “shisha”, but this practice is limited to the Egyptian men. The cultural dive was gaping at first but by the end of the trip, there were a few stagiaires not resplendent in Egyptian jewllery, djalabahs, or appropriate headdress. As a study trip, we now appreciate Egyptian commerce and its dress sense. But on this first day we were sent scurrying back to the safety of our boat by the heat and the intensity of the locals around us, but this initial taste lefts us thirsting for more. After our first experiences we eagerly packed our survival kit (camera, sunscreen, travel guide and water) for the legendary “valley of the Kings”.
Monday 23, June 1997, Esna:
If paradise is desert and 40º, then we are in heaven. But by “paradise” I mean in a socio-cultural sense, enthusiasm, energy and harsh reality in stark contrast to the scorched Earth (10 mm of rain every 5 years). Esna, is not a big village, but is the village where many of the river boats come to roost. The river boats themselves have flat bottoms and dock next to each other, so you have to often walk through many boats before you get to your own. The boats resemble hotels – huge chandeliers, kitch décor, and Italian furniture, but these were no match for the psychedelic fountain on the Nile Crown. We set off to explore the old word, but it come to us; drivers, traders and kids. One man offered 2 billion camels for one girl – there were 24 women to 5 men on the bout – so this seemed a good deal, especially as we had a few to spare. It was an offer we were to decline many times during the trip. Many kids followed us and asked for “baksheesh” the ancient a noble art of tipping in Egypt – we were become very accustomed to this practice. We were cut off in the streets by “kalesh” drivers seeking a fare (taxi drivers in a horse and carriage) and everyone jostled for a piece of the tourist action. Just outside our boat 3 men smoked a water pipe called a “shisha”, but this practice is limited to the Egyptian men. The cultural dive was gaping at first but by the end of the trip, there were a few stagiaires not resplendent in Egyptian jewllery, djalabahs, or appropriate headdress. As a study trip, we now appreciate Egyptian commerce and its dress sense. But on this first day we were sent scurrying back to the safety of our boat by the heat and the intensity of the locals around us, but this initial taste lefts us thirsting for more. After our first experiences we eagerly packed our survival kit (camera, sunscreen, travel guide and water) for the legendary “valley of the Kings”.
24/07/08
The Borobodur Temple. Java, Indonesia.
A few years ago I made an unforgettable trip to Indonesia. One of my favorite’s spots was the Borobodur Temple in Central Java. Not just because the Borobodur complex is one of the greatest monuments in the world but also because it was for about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java. It was lost until its rediscovery in the eighteenth century, and for this reason it is of uncertain age. Nevertheless, it seams that it was built between the end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth century A.D. The structure is enormous and composed of 55,000 square meters of lava-rock is erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole structure is in the form of a lotus flower, the sacred flower of Buddha. For each direction there are ninety-two Dhyani Buddha statues and 1,460 relief scenes. The lowest level has 160 reliefs depicting cause and effect; the middle level contains various stories of the Buddha's life from the Jataka Tales; the highest level has no reliefs or decorations whatsoever but has a balcony, square in shape with round walls: a circle without beginning or end. Here is the place of the ninety-two Vajrasattvas or Dhyani Buddhas tucked into small stupas. Each of these statues has a mudra (hand gesture) indicating one of the five directions: east, with the mudra of calling the earth to witness; south, with the hand position of blessing; west, with the gesture of meditation; north, the mudra of fearlessness; and the centre with the gesture of teaching. Besides being the highest symbol of Buddhism, the Borobodur is also a replica of the universe. It symbolizes the micro-cosmos, which is divided into three levels, in which man's world of desire is influenced by negative impulses; the middle level, the world in which man has control of his negative impulses and uses his positive impulses; the highest level, in which the world of man is no longer bounded by physical and worldly ancient desire. It is devotional practice to circumambulate around the galleries and terraces always turning to the left and keeping the edifice to the right while either chanting or meditating. In total, Borobodur represents the ten levels of a Bodhisattva's life which he or she must develop to become a Buddha or an awakened one. Borobodur is a place that touch us for the amazing structure, and makes us think about life and the universe that surround us.
21/07/08
The final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. Atlas Mountain, Morocco
Day 5. Neltner refuge (3.205 meters), base camp for the final climbing. We were walking for the past five days, and finally we arrived to Neltner refuge, the base camp to the final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. The day was soft in order to keep our strengths to the big moment. We were apprehensive but full of expectations. This morning we start waking at 9h00 and after a quick lunch, we were arriving to the base camp. As usual, preparing the camp was our fist job. We left behind us a long walk to remote, off the beaten track areas, and traditional Berber villages populated by friendly local people living a life that’s changed little over hundreds of years. This long walking days were also very import to acclimatization hike before we proceed to the Toubkal Refuge at the head of the valley, for the final stage of our trip. From here, we aim to climb Morocco's highest summit, Toubkal (4.167m), also the highest mountain in North Africa. Our guide, Hammed, briefed us the importance of resting during the day, since we will start walking at 4h00 in morning, to make sure that we can survive to the danger trio: extreme heat, highness sick and tiredness of climbing the rocks. Setting off for the summit by torchlight in darkness adds to the occasion and you really feel like you're about to do something special. We made it! We all get to the top. Standing on the summit was by far the best part of the trip. Spectacular views from each of these peaks extend across the rocky Atlas ranges and southwards to Jebel Sahro and the Sahara. I really appreciate the effort done by Hammed to assure that each member of the group will get to the top, besides each physical condition. There was a lot more snow than I had expected. The push to the summit was also more rocky and rugged than I thought it would be, after all, much more interesting and exciting. If you are not afraid to leave your usual comfort, wish to fill your eyes with the most beautiful images, this is trip deserves to be experienced.
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