Child Of The Universe. Bali, Indonesia

Child Of The Universe

The universe exploded,

A piece became the earth.

I rode in on a meteror,

Its crash was my birth.

Lava took me for a ride,

To cool in the sea.

I waited for millions of years,

For nature to use me.

I became a child of the universe,

With no place to go.

Then God gave life a meaning,

That's how I got my soul.

L. C. Brown

Esna from the past. Esna, Egypt

In 1997 I did a study trip to Egypt with a group of 29 stagiares from the European Commission. In our group, we had nice Australian fellow (nicked name as the Antipodean), who had the energy to write a trip diary. Allow me to share a few parts of it. Before that, simply words about Esna: The present Egyptian village of Esna, which was ancient Iunyt or Ta-senet (from which the Coptic Sne and Arabic Isna derive), was built in the area of ancient Latopolis and is the site of a major temple dedicated to the god Khnum. Under the Greeks and Romans, the city became the capital of the Third Nome of Upper Egypt. Besides Khnum, the temple was dedicated to several other deities, the most prominent of whom were Neith and Heka. Esna is located on the Nile about fifty kilometers south of Luxor. The temple now stands in the middle of the modern town at a level about nine meters below that of the surrounding grounds and the temple Khnum is the major (unique) attraction of Esna.

Monday 23, June 1997, Esna:
If paradise is desert and 40º, then we are in heaven. But by “paradise” I mean in a socio-cultural sense, enthusiasm, energy and harsh reality in stark contrast to the scorched Earth (10 mm of rain every 5 years). Esna, is not a big village, but is the village where many of the river boats come to roost. The river boats themselves have flat bottoms and dock next to each other, so you have to often walk through many boats before you get to your own. The boats resemble hotels – huge chandeliers, kitch décor, and Italian furniture, but these were no match for the psychedelic fountain on the Nile Crown. We set off to explore the old word, but it come to us; drivers, traders and kids. One man offered 2 billion camels for one girl – there were 24 women to 5 men on the bout – so this seemed a good deal, especially as we had a few to spare. It was an offer we were to decline many times during the trip. Many kids followed us and asked for “baksheesh” the ancient a noble art of tipping in Egypt – we were become very accustomed to this practice. We were cut off in the streets by “kalesh” drivers seeking a fare (taxi drivers in a horse and carriage) and everyone jostled for a piece of the tourist action. Just outside our boat 3 men smoked a water pipe called a “shisha”, but this practice is limited to the Egyptian men. The cultural dive was gaping at first but by the end of the trip, there were a few stagiaires not resplendent in Egyptian jewllery, djalabahs, or appropriate headdress. As a study trip, we now appreciate Egyptian commerce and its dress sense. But on this first day we were sent scurrying back to the safety of our boat by the heat and the intensity of the locals around us, but this initial taste lefts us thirsting for more. After our first experiences we eagerly packed our survival kit (camera, sunscreen, travel guide and water) for the legendary “valley of the Kings”.

The Borobodur Temple. Java, Indonesia.

A few years ago I made an unforgettable trip to Indonesia. One of my favorite’s spots was the Borobodur Temple in Central Java. Not just because the Borobodur complex is one of the greatest monuments in the world but also because it was for about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java. It was lost until its rediscovery in the eighteenth century, and for this reason it is of uncertain age. Nevertheless, it seams that it was built between the end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth century A.D. The structure is enormous and composed of 55,000 square meters of lava-rock is erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole structure is in the form of a lotus flower, the sacred flower of Buddha. For each direction there are ninety-two Dhyani Buddha statues and 1,460 relief scenes. The lowest level has 160 reliefs depicting cause and effect; the middle level contains various stories of the Buddha's life from the Jataka Tales; the highest level has no reliefs or decorations whatsoever but has a balcony, square in shape with round walls: a circle without beginning or end. Here is the place of the ninety-two Vajrasattvas or Dhyani Buddhas tucked into small stupas. Each of these statues has a mudra (hand gesture) indicating one of the five directions: east, with the mudra of calling the earth to witness; south, with the hand position of blessing; west, with the gesture of meditation; north, the mudra of fearlessness; and the centre with the gesture of teaching. Besides being the highest symbol of Buddhism, the Borobodur is also a replica of the universe. It symbolizes the micro-cosmos, which is divided into three levels, in which man's world of desire is influenced by negative impulses; the middle level, the world in which man has control of his negative impulses and uses his positive impulses; the highest level, in which the world of man is no longer bounded by physical and worldly ancient desire. It is devotional practice to circumambulate around the galleries and terraces always turning to the left and keeping the edifice to the right while either chanting or meditating. In total, Borobodur represents the ten levels of a Bodhisattva's life which he or she must develop to become a Buddha or an awakened one. Borobodur is a place that touch us for the amazing structure, and makes us think about life and the universe that surround us.

The final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. Atlas Mountain, Morocco

Day 5. Neltner refuge (3.205 meters), base camp for the final climbing. We were walking for the past five days, and finally we arrived to Neltner refuge, the base camp to the final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. The day was soft in order to keep our strengths to the big moment. We were apprehensive but full of expectations. This morning we start waking at 9h00 and after a quick lunch, we were arriving to the base camp. As usual, preparing the camp was our fist job. We left behind us a long walk to remote, off the beaten track areas, and traditional Berber villages populated by friendly local people living a life that’s changed little over hundreds of years. This long walking days were also very import to acclimatization hike before we proceed to the Toubkal Refuge at the head of the valley, for the final stage of our trip. From here, we aim to climb Morocco's highest summit, Toubkal (4.167m), also the highest mountain in North Africa. Our guide, Hammed, briefed us the importance of resting during the day, since we will start walking at 4h00 in morning, to make sure that we can survive to the danger trio: extreme heat, highness sick and tiredness of climbing the rocks. Setting off for the summit by torchlight in darkness adds to the occasion and you really feel like you're about to do something special. We made it! We all get to the top. Standing on the summit was by far the best part of the trip. Spectacular views from each of these peaks extend across the rocky Atlas ranges and southwards to Jebel Sahro and the Sahara. I really appreciate the effort done by Hammed to assure that each member of the group will get to the top, besides each physical condition. There was a lot more snow than I had expected. The push to the summit was also more rocky and rugged than I thought it would be, after all, much more interesting and exciting. If you are not afraid to leave your usual comfort, wish to fill your eyes with the most beautiful images, this is trip deserves to be experienced.

Magical place. Marrakech. Morocco.

Marrakech. There's only one world to define it: magical... Snake charmers, magic potions, hidden palaces, and international spies from the past: Marrakesh, the capital of the south, has a mysterious and seductive air and brings the most outlandish travelers' tales to life. The reddish city has waylaid desert caravans since the 11th century, as visitors succumb to the charms of its bluesy Gnaoua trance music, colorful bazaars, steamy hammams (traditional Moroccan spas), and multi-course feasts. This mosque is not fare from the city walls, one of the biggest attractions of Marrakech. They where built in the XII century and subsequently destroyed and rebuilt. The reddish color is distinctive and the two meters thick and 15 kilometers long are impressive. It has powerful ancient ramparts, various styles and many monumental doors. I realize now that this photo was taken 11 years ago in the outskirts of Marrakech! Incredible how time flies! By that time I had an amazing traveling experience in Morocco. I still remember every single detail. In some way, photography can be timeless, without beginning or end; eternal; almost everlasting. Marrakech is not only a fantastic city, it is also a symbol of the Morocco that once was, and which still survives here. In my opinion, this photo captures the exact felling of this vibrant and timeless place.

Endless time at Dhobi Ghat. Mumbai, India

It was 8:45 am in downtown Mumbai India and I was at the railway bridge gazing down amazed as hundreds of men worked vigorously, up to their knees in cold soapy water in rows of open tanks alongside caustic vats in the morning sunshine, pounding and hanging wet cloth in Bombay’s laundry. Dhobi Ghat is Mumbai’s timeless laundry where 5,000 men work daily and a vast network of hereditary ‘dhobi’ collectors, mainly families and children, bring washing form all over the exploding city. This is, in fact, a unique feature of Mumbai. The dhobi is a traditional laundryman, who will collect your dirty linen, wash it, and return it neatly pressed to your doorstep. All for a pittance. The "laundries" are called "ghats": row upon row of concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone. The clothes are soaked in sudsy water, thrashed on the flogging stones, then tossed into huge vats of boiling starch and hung out to dry. Next they are ironed and piled into neat bundles. The most famous of these Dhobi Ghats is at Saat Rasta near Mahalaxmi Station where almost two hundred dhobis and their families work together in what has always been a hereditary occupation. Dhobi Ghat is symbolic place from a country that lives with so many differences. The growing gap is visible everywhere, between this reality and fast track, first world India with its gleaming hotels, new shopping malls, glass clad landscaped office campuses like new-day Maharajas’ palaces, broadband and telecom access and vibrant media.

Place Jeu de Balle, Brussels, Belgium

Brussels, Belgium is known for beer, chocolate, and being the capital of the European Union. Many people stop right there. But for a unique Brussels experience (including beer and chocolate and a very good lunch, of course), savvy travelers know to go where the locals go, and discover what you won’t find on the brochure. Jeu de Balle square is one of those places. Jeu de Balle flea market in the Marolles district continues to be a local staple for bargain shopping, and although the market is well-known, there are always new diamonds waiting to be found in this rough. From 6 a.m.-2 p.m. daily, sellers peddle their wares, from old to new, junk to funk, and strange to sublime. Haggling is a must. If you real want to seal the deal, just wait until closer to 2 p.m. For over tree years Jeu de Balle was my favorite Sunday morning hobby. I already miss it.

Wings of Desire. Berlin. Germany

I can flyBut
I want his wings
I can shine even in the darkness

But I crave the light that he brings

Revel in the songs that he sings

My angel Gabriel

I can love

But I need his heart

I am strong even on my own

But from him I never want to part

He’s been there since the very start

My angel Gabriel

My angel Gabriel

Bless the day he came to be

Angels wings carried him to me

HeavenlyI can fly

But I want his wings

I can shine even in the darkness

But I crave the light that he brings

Revel in the songs that he sings

My angel Gabriel

My angel Gabriel

My angel Gabriel

Gabriel, from the album “What Sound”, Lamb

Sailing in Bonifacio strait. Sardegna/ Corsica, Italy/ France

The Bonifacio strait and the Costa Smeralda of Sardegna, namely the summer capitals of the Mediterranean: Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo; are the places of the super yachts of Hollywood star and fashion design kind. Even if you’re are not a Hollywood star or a very rich person, you can still have a lot of fun with a small renting sailing boat, and discover incredible shelters, amazing beaches and blue waters. But, like every famous expanse of water, the Bonifacio Strait and the Corsican Sea provide both, stunning natural beauty and a remarkable amount of difficulties: these come in the shape of a northwesterly wind called Mistral, which may flow in every month of the year with fierceness carrying along high seas raised all the way back in the Lion’s Gulf. When it is funneled between Corsica and Sardinia and plays with the currents of the strait, a certain amount of fun and fear must be expected! After a wonderful day at beach in Cala Coticcio and Cala Napoletana, amazing places with their rock and color show, we sailed to Santa Teresa de Galura. We had in mind to spend the night there and sail in the next morning to Bonifacio, in Corsica, France. But the wind had transformed our afternoon in an unforgettable sea adventure. With our brains and stomachs all mix up we arrived to our destiny. For the same reason – the wind – anchoring at the Port of Santa Teresa was impossible since it was completely full. In the sea (again!) we had been lucky to find a mooring in the cove of Cala Portese just after the cape of Santa Teresa de Galura where we spent the night. Our skipper didn’t sleep all time because the sea was not safe. But in the morning, the strong Mistral wind was gone, the sun was shinning again and we carry on our journey in the wonders of the Mediterranean Sea.

Asking hands. Brussels, Belgium

Time is too slow for those who wait,

Too swift for those who fear,

Too long for those who grieve,

Too short for those who rejoice.

But for those who love,
Time is not.

Henry van Dyke

Greek atmosphere. Santorini, Greece.

Among all the great things in Greece, food is definitely a point of attention and detention. In my trips to Greece I always found something good, new and, more that, easy to do at home. Greek food is authentic and somehow basic for a Mediterranean. I would like to share this recipe with you: “Mushrooms a la Greque”.

Mushrooms a la Greek Recipe with Button Mushrooms, Tomatoes, Onion, Olive Oil, White Wine, Garlic and Parsley.

INGREDIENTS:
1 lb (450g) Button Mushrooms
12 oz (350g) Tomatoes
1 1/2 oz (40g) finely chopped Onion
2 tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 pint (300ml) White Wine
1 Garlic Clove, crushed Parsley
Salt & Pepper

METHOD:
Fry the Onion in the Olive Oil. Add the White Wine and Garlic and season. Add skinned, quartered Tomatoes, along with the Mushrooms and cook for 15 minutes uncovered. Chill and sprinkle with Parsley before serving. Serves 6. Enjoy your meal.

Untroubled. Bruges' Begijnhof, Belgium

Bruges is one of those places that you can go thousands of times. By the time I was living in Belgium I definitely lost the count, once I went to Bruges with all my friends. As a first reaction upon visiting Bruges, I immediately notice that this city has always carefully cherished its architectural and artistic treasures from the past. Bruges has a long tradition of international port activity. The oldest trade settlement of Bruges and the early middle age port was accessible from the sea until around 1050. The second area of occupation outside the Burg was close to the present day Steenstraat and the Oude Burg. It was here that the city grew fastest until around 1100. The ancient history of Bruges is also present in the various churches that we can see all over the city. The historic city centre was added to the Unesco’s World Heritage List. The current city boundaries still coincide exactly with those of the medieval city centre, and the spaces and structures that were so typical of Bruges in the past have been preserved. I took this photo at Begijnhofs convent in Bruges. Begijnhofs are traditional communities date back to the twelfth century when a Leige priest, Lambert le Begue, encouraged widows and unmarried women to live in religious communities. This was intended to encourage pious acts, especially tending for the sick. The inhabitants, beguines, did not have to take vows, unlike nuns in a conventional convent, and were free to return to the secular world. The Bruges' Begijnhof was founded in 1245 by Margaret, Countess of Flanders. However most of the houses date from the eighteenth century, although the medieval layout has survived. The houses are now occupied by Benedictine nuns. I was impress buy the tranquility of the place and also for the religious acts of the Benedictine nuns, which despite all the touristy activities still untroubled like in medieval times.

Country of Longitudinal Essences. Puerto Natales, Chile

“Let's begin at the beginning, with Chile, that remote land that few people can locate on the map because it's as far as you can go without falling off the planet. Why don't we sell Chile and buy something closer to Paris? one of our intellectuals once asked. No one passes by casually, however lost he may be, although many visitors decide to stay forever, enamored of the land and the people. Chile lies at the end of all roads, a lance to the south of the south of America, four thousand three hundred kilometers of hills, valleys, lakes, and sea. This is how Neruda describes it in his impassioned poetry:

Night, snow and sand compose the form

of my slender homeland,

all silence is contained within its length,

all foam issues from its seaswept beard,

all coal fills it with mysterious kisses.

This elongated country is like an island, separated on the north from the rest of the continent by the Atacama Desert - the driest in the world, its inhabitants like to say, although that must not be true, because in springtime parts of that lunar rubble tend to be covered with a mantle of flowers, like a wondrous painting by Monet. To the east rises the cordillera of the Andes, a formidable mass of rock and eternal snows, and to the west the abrupt coastline of the Pacific Ocean. Below, to the south, lie the solitudes of Antarctica.”

From "My Invented Country: A Memoire". Isabel Allende

Allende’s love for Chile is so evident and eloquent that many readers will consider packing their bags and booking the next flight to Santiago. That was what I did!

Plaka Distrit, Athens, Greece

The Plaka is the oldest section of Athens. Easy to get: the Plaka is under the Acropolis and there are two main streets: Kydatheneon and Adrianou. Kydatheneon begins at Nikis st, which is one block down from Constitution (or Syntagma) Square. Most of the streets have been closed to automobile traffic, though you should still keep a watchful eye for a speeding motorcycle or delivery truck, once they are really fast. At one time it was the nightclub district, but most of these closed in the seventies. The strategy was very successful and it is now an area of restaurants, cafes and jewelry stores. Though it is quite commercialized it is still a neighborhood and arguably the nicest neighborhood in central Athens. Most of the restaurants are typical tourist places but the quality of food is not bad in many of them. The Plaka café’s are a must. If you sit in one of these cafes or outside in a restaurant long enough you will see that everyone who comes to Greece walks down these two streets! When the Athens’s summer heat comes, the Plaka is the place to be. The atmosphere is very pleasant and the people are nice. We can have an enjoyable evening and not be unpleasantly surprised by the bill.

Wild life at the Beagle Canal. Ushuaia, Argentina

Ushuaia is the most southern city in the world. From Ushuaia we can sail to the waters of the Beagle Canal, scene of Charles Darwin’s studies on species (the Beagle was the name of the ship). Besides the cold and the missing sun, there was no wind in this autumn morning and the sea was calm and quite. From the canal we can still see the snowy peaks of Andes, already in Chile, and the Martial Glacier, just behind the city. As we slipped away from Ushuaia, we seemed to enter a magical territory of sea animals. The canal has many small islands where sea lions, cormorants and penguins gather safely showing themselves to the curious visitor. In a few more moments we reached the Les Eclaireurs, the furthest south of any Argentine lighthouse. The sensation is magic, not only for the beauty of the landscape but for the feeling of being so fare way from home, almost in the end of word.

Be equipped. Australian Outback

Australia is great but massive. It is vast and varied with sometimes incomprehensible distances between locations. From Sydney to Ayers Rock, capital of the Australian Outback, is about 2875 kilometers. Besides being a very modern and sophisticated country, the real challenge for the visitor is to hang around in the remote areas, which are really worth seeing for his wild beauty. I went to the Australian Outback and I realize that along with his beauties we have to bear in mind that they can also be very dangerous. Distances are vast in Australia, so fuel, water, and other essential supplies are going to be costly. Outside the cities, traffic is not too much of a problem, but the roads themselves have hazards with which you may not be familiar, so always expect the unexpected. The passenger in the front seat should always regard himself as on duty as a spotter. Kangaroos, Buffalos and cattle are a hazard. If you see something these big anywhere near the road, slow down. Once leaving bitumen roads and starts driving on dirt, there are all sorts of additional hazards. The most obvious are the dust thrown up by other vehicles and the stones which fly off the road surface as another vehicle passes, and which can easily crack or break a windscreen. Realize in advance that driving on a dirt road is going to reduce your average speed and increase your fuel consumption, so plan for this, rather than feeling pressure to reach a pre-determined destination on time. Everything must be planed: you will need spare fuel, plenty of water, some common spare parts for your vehicle, a good detailed map and a plan for emergencies. But don’t be scare, being careful and having all this in mind, Australia Outback is a place to be felt at least once in a lifetime.

Relaxing in Ibn Tulun Mosque. Cairo, Egypt

I visit Egypt last December 2006 for the second time. In my fist time in Egypt, back in 1997, I spent my days visiting the wonderful historic places of the Nile. This time I went to Cairo for the first time. I totally reject the idea of a quick visit, one day at the Egyptian Museum, another at the Pyramids. Cairo is a city full of life and energy. I felt that it takes several days just to explore Cairo's life, and discover one of the most exotic, dramatic, extravagant, profound and, genuinely, fascinating places on earth. I dedicated most of my time visiting religious sites: Catholic, Islamic and Copt. I was astonished by the Ibn Tulun Mosque. This mosque dates back to the 9th century and is one the largest mosques in the Muslim world. It takes its name from Ahmad Ibn Tulum, founder of the Tulunid Dynasty which dominated Egypt from 868-905. The mosque was built from 876-79 with materials gathered from a destroyed Christian church outside the Muslim city. The views of the city are great and I couldn’t resist in snap shooting this image.