Child Of The Universe. Bali, Indonesia

Child Of The Universe

The universe exploded,

A piece became the earth.

I rode in on a meteror,

Its crash was my birth.

Lava took me for a ride,

To cool in the sea.

I waited for millions of years,

For nature to use me.

I became a child of the universe,

With no place to go.

Then God gave life a meaning,

That's how I got my soul.

L. C. Brown

Esna from the past. Esna, Egypt

In 1997 I did a study trip to Egypt with a group of 29 stagiares from the European Commission. In our group, we had nice Australian fellow (nicked name as the Antipodean), who had the energy to write a trip diary. Allow me to share a few parts of it. Before that, simply words about Esna: The present Egyptian village of Esna, which was ancient Iunyt or Ta-senet (from which the Coptic Sne and Arabic Isna derive), was built in the area of ancient Latopolis and is the site of a major temple dedicated to the god Khnum. Under the Greeks and Romans, the city became the capital of the Third Nome of Upper Egypt. Besides Khnum, the temple was dedicated to several other deities, the most prominent of whom were Neith and Heka. Esna is located on the Nile about fifty kilometers south of Luxor. The temple now stands in the middle of the modern town at a level about nine meters below that of the surrounding grounds and the temple Khnum is the major (unique) attraction of Esna.

Monday 23, June 1997, Esna:
If paradise is desert and 40º, then we are in heaven. But by “paradise” I mean in a socio-cultural sense, enthusiasm, energy and harsh reality in stark contrast to the scorched Earth (10 mm of rain every 5 years). Esna, is not a big village, but is the village where many of the river boats come to roost. The river boats themselves have flat bottoms and dock next to each other, so you have to often walk through many boats before you get to your own. The boats resemble hotels – huge chandeliers, kitch décor, and Italian furniture, but these were no match for the psychedelic fountain on the Nile Crown. We set off to explore the old word, but it come to us; drivers, traders and kids. One man offered 2 billion camels for one girl – there were 24 women to 5 men on the bout – so this seemed a good deal, especially as we had a few to spare. It was an offer we were to decline many times during the trip. Many kids followed us and asked for “baksheesh” the ancient a noble art of tipping in Egypt – we were become very accustomed to this practice. We were cut off in the streets by “kalesh” drivers seeking a fare (taxi drivers in a horse and carriage) and everyone jostled for a piece of the tourist action. Just outside our boat 3 men smoked a water pipe called a “shisha”, but this practice is limited to the Egyptian men. The cultural dive was gaping at first but by the end of the trip, there were a few stagiaires not resplendent in Egyptian jewllery, djalabahs, or appropriate headdress. As a study trip, we now appreciate Egyptian commerce and its dress sense. But on this first day we were sent scurrying back to the safety of our boat by the heat and the intensity of the locals around us, but this initial taste lefts us thirsting for more. After our first experiences we eagerly packed our survival kit (camera, sunscreen, travel guide and water) for the legendary “valley of the Kings”.

The Borobodur Temple. Java, Indonesia.

A few years ago I made an unforgettable trip to Indonesia. One of my favorite’s spots was the Borobodur Temple in Central Java. Not just because the Borobodur complex is one of the greatest monuments in the world but also because it was for about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java. It was lost until its rediscovery in the eighteenth century, and for this reason it is of uncertain age. Nevertheless, it seams that it was built between the end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth century A.D. The structure is enormous and composed of 55,000 square meters of lava-rock is erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole structure is in the form of a lotus flower, the sacred flower of Buddha. For each direction there are ninety-two Dhyani Buddha statues and 1,460 relief scenes. The lowest level has 160 reliefs depicting cause and effect; the middle level contains various stories of the Buddha's life from the Jataka Tales; the highest level has no reliefs or decorations whatsoever but has a balcony, square in shape with round walls: a circle without beginning or end. Here is the place of the ninety-two Vajrasattvas or Dhyani Buddhas tucked into small stupas. Each of these statues has a mudra (hand gesture) indicating one of the five directions: east, with the mudra of calling the earth to witness; south, with the hand position of blessing; west, with the gesture of meditation; north, the mudra of fearlessness; and the centre with the gesture of teaching. Besides being the highest symbol of Buddhism, the Borobodur is also a replica of the universe. It symbolizes the micro-cosmos, which is divided into three levels, in which man's world of desire is influenced by negative impulses; the middle level, the world in which man has control of his negative impulses and uses his positive impulses; the highest level, in which the world of man is no longer bounded by physical and worldly ancient desire. It is devotional practice to circumambulate around the galleries and terraces always turning to the left and keeping the edifice to the right while either chanting or meditating. In total, Borobodur represents the ten levels of a Bodhisattva's life which he or she must develop to become a Buddha or an awakened one. Borobodur is a place that touch us for the amazing structure, and makes us think about life and the universe that surround us.

The final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. Atlas Mountain, Morocco

Day 5. Neltner refuge (3.205 meters), base camp for the final climbing. We were walking for the past five days, and finally we arrived to Neltner refuge, the base camp to the final climbing to Jebel Toubkal. The day was soft in order to keep our strengths to the big moment. We were apprehensive but full of expectations. This morning we start waking at 9h00 and after a quick lunch, we were arriving to the base camp. As usual, preparing the camp was our fist job. We left behind us a long walk to remote, off the beaten track areas, and traditional Berber villages populated by friendly local people living a life that’s changed little over hundreds of years. This long walking days were also very import to acclimatization hike before we proceed to the Toubkal Refuge at the head of the valley, for the final stage of our trip. From here, we aim to climb Morocco's highest summit, Toubkal (4.167m), also the highest mountain in North Africa. Our guide, Hammed, briefed us the importance of resting during the day, since we will start walking at 4h00 in morning, to make sure that we can survive to the danger trio: extreme heat, highness sick and tiredness of climbing the rocks. Setting off for the summit by torchlight in darkness adds to the occasion and you really feel like you're about to do something special. We made it! We all get to the top. Standing on the summit was by far the best part of the trip. Spectacular views from each of these peaks extend across the rocky Atlas ranges and southwards to Jebel Sahro and the Sahara. I really appreciate the effort done by Hammed to assure that each member of the group will get to the top, besides each physical condition. There was a lot more snow than I had expected. The push to the summit was also more rocky and rugged than I thought it would be, after all, much more interesting and exciting. If you are not afraid to leave your usual comfort, wish to fill your eyes with the most beautiful images, this is trip deserves to be experienced.

Magical place. Marrakech. Morocco.

Marrakech. There's only one world to define it: magical... Snake charmers, magic potions, hidden palaces, and international spies from the past: Marrakesh, the capital of the south, has a mysterious and seductive air and brings the most outlandish travelers' tales to life. The reddish city has waylaid desert caravans since the 11th century, as visitors succumb to the charms of its bluesy Gnaoua trance music, colorful bazaars, steamy hammams (traditional Moroccan spas), and multi-course feasts. This mosque is not fare from the city walls, one of the biggest attractions of Marrakech. They where built in the XII century and subsequently destroyed and rebuilt. The reddish color is distinctive and the two meters thick and 15 kilometers long are impressive. It has powerful ancient ramparts, various styles and many monumental doors. I realize now that this photo was taken 11 years ago in the outskirts of Marrakech! Incredible how time flies! By that time I had an amazing traveling experience in Morocco. I still remember every single detail. In some way, photography can be timeless, without beginning or end; eternal; almost everlasting. Marrakech is not only a fantastic city, it is also a symbol of the Morocco that once was, and which still survives here. In my opinion, this photo captures the exact felling of this vibrant and timeless place.

Endless time at Dhobi Ghat. Mumbai, India

It was 8:45 am in downtown Mumbai India and I was at the railway bridge gazing down amazed as hundreds of men worked vigorously, up to their knees in cold soapy water in rows of open tanks alongside caustic vats in the morning sunshine, pounding and hanging wet cloth in Bombay’s laundry. Dhobi Ghat is Mumbai’s timeless laundry where 5,000 men work daily and a vast network of hereditary ‘dhobi’ collectors, mainly families and children, bring washing form all over the exploding city. This is, in fact, a unique feature of Mumbai. The dhobi is a traditional laundryman, who will collect your dirty linen, wash it, and return it neatly pressed to your doorstep. All for a pittance. The "laundries" are called "ghats": row upon row of concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone. The clothes are soaked in sudsy water, thrashed on the flogging stones, then tossed into huge vats of boiling starch and hung out to dry. Next they are ironed and piled into neat bundles. The most famous of these Dhobi Ghats is at Saat Rasta near Mahalaxmi Station where almost two hundred dhobis and their families work together in what has always been a hereditary occupation. Dhobi Ghat is symbolic place from a country that lives with so many differences. The growing gap is visible everywhere, between this reality and fast track, first world India with its gleaming hotels, new shopping malls, glass clad landscaped office campuses like new-day Maharajas’ palaces, broadband and telecom access and vibrant media.

Place Jeu de Balle, Brussels, Belgium

Brussels, Belgium is known for beer, chocolate, and being the capital of the European Union. Many people stop right there. But for a unique Brussels experience (including beer and chocolate and a very good lunch, of course), savvy travelers know to go where the locals go, and discover what you won’t find on the brochure. Jeu de Balle square is one of those places. Jeu de Balle flea market in the Marolles district continues to be a local staple for bargain shopping, and although the market is well-known, there are always new diamonds waiting to be found in this rough. From 6 a.m.-2 p.m. daily, sellers peddle their wares, from old to new, junk to funk, and strange to sublime. Haggling is a must. If you real want to seal the deal, just wait until closer to 2 p.m. For over tree years Jeu de Balle was my favorite Sunday morning hobby. I already miss it.