My friends
ask me why do I surf? I do not have a proper answer! I do it because I like it.
Makes me feel good. I love the sea. Sea is freedom. Sea if fear. Sea if passing
your limits. Sea is respect. Sea is challenge. I feel that surf is one of those
things that won't leave us indifferent. Surf is not just that thing you do! On
the contrary, surf gets under the skin if not in your blood. Surfing become
part of you. Surfing, like everything else in life, is filled with immense
difficulty and unpredictability where the keyword is "perseverance".
Maybe that's why it's so attractive. I really like the connection between man
and nature. I like the fact that a tinny small moment (seconds on a wave) can
enrich your live so much and give you so much pleasure. The truth is, for that
small moments you do a lot. You wake up early, you drive to the beach, you
change from your comfortable clothes for a bad smelly wet suit no matter where! Most of the days, you put yourself in a frizzing cold water…just for
that amazing seconds. After that, nothing really matters, just that amazing
seconds. You fell so grateful after doing it. W. Somerset Maughan is correct “Nothing in the world is permanent, and we’re
foolish when we ask anything to last, but surely we’re still more foolish not
to take delight in it while we have it.“. I just surf. Thanks Nuno Santos for
the pictures. You made those moments even more special.
