A good break from the Jordan tourist mass. As-Salt, Jordan.

Not fare from Amman busy capital, but still in the atmosphere of fascinating contrasts, we find the ancient town As-Salt. As-Salt was once the most important settlement in the area between the Jordan Valley and the eastern desert. We went there for the morning, trying to capture the real Jordanian life, far from the touristic eyes. Because of its history as an important trading link between the eastern desert and the west, it was a significant place for the region’s many rulers. The Romans, Byzantines and Mamlukes all contributed to the growth of the town but it was at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century, during Ottoman rule, when As-Salt enjoyed its most prosperous period. It was at that time that the Ottomans established a regional administrative base in As-Salt and encouraged settlement from other parts of their empire. As the town’s status increased, many merchants arrived and, with their newly acquired wealth, built the fine houses that can still be admired in As-Salt today. These splendid yellow sandstone buildings incorporate a variety of local and European styles. Typically, they have domed roofs, interior courtyards and tall, arched windows. Perhaps the most beautiful is the Abu Jaber mansion, built between 1892 and 1906, which has frescoed ceilings, painted by Italian artists, and is reputed to be the finest example of a19th century merchant house in the region. Besides its beauty, some restoration works are urgently needed. There is also a small museum and a handicraft school where you can admire the traditional skills of ceramics, weaving, silk-screen printing and dyeing. As-Salt also has an interesting market street, with some every day life products, such as vegetables and spices, and other goods for kitchen and cooker’s lovers. As-Salt is located 29 kilometers northwest from the centre of Amman and can be easily reached within a half-hour drive. As-Salt is a good break from the Jordan tourist mass, and a good spot for tasting the Jordanian life.

Unpredictable Cordoba II. Spain

I close my Spanish tour with my visit to the Medina Azahara, the last Islamic wonder. About fifteen kilometers to the North West of the city of Cordoba, at the end of a narrow country road, in the foothills of the mountains, there are the ruins of an ancient palatial and administrative city built by the first Caliph of Al Andalus, Abdel Rahman III, beginning in 963 AD. Medina Azahara, spanisation of the Arab name Madīnat al-Zahr ā ' (The city of Zahra) was a city when western direction told palace to be built by Abderramán III (Abd al-Rahman III, al-Nasir). The principal causes of his construction were of nature ideological-politician: The dignity of the Calif demands the foundation of a new city, symbol of his power, to the imitation of other oriental caliphates and especially, to show his superiority on his great enemies, the fatimíadas of Ifriqia, the Northern District of the African continent. In spite of the wealth and solidity of the employed materials, Medina Azahara did not come surviving not even one century, since I was destroyed and looted in 1010, like consequence of the civil war that put end to the caliphate of Cordoba. There are many interesting legends surrounding this city, which in its short life was renowned as the most luxurious and artistically pleasing city in Europe, outshining even Cordoba. Built as the administrative capital of Muslim Spain, it was destroyed only about forty five years after it was begun, by mutinous Berber soldiers, angered by its luxury. The ruins were abandoned and plundered; it is said that some of the marble columns now are evident in the facade of the Giralda in Sevilla. The city was eventually buried by the dust and mud from the adjacent mountains of the Sierra Morena. After almost a thousand years of silence, the ruins began to be excavated in 1910, but even today only a fraction of the enormous site has been cleared. The site is called Madinat al Zahra: the city of blossoms. The word comes from the word azahar means white flower, particularly the blossom of orange or lemon, and that it comes from the arabic al zahr, meaning the same. The perfume of orange blossom fills the evening air in Sevilla in the summer; and it was in Sevilla that we first thought about forming Azahar. Another possible, and perhaps more likely, source for the name is that he named it after the daughter of Muhammad, who was called Fatima Az Zahra (the shining one), and thus the name would be the Islamic equivalent of Marysville.

Unpredictable Cordoba I. Cordoba, Spain

Cordoba´s unpredictable cityscape showcases to its tourists a whole world of striking and astounding history. People of diverse cultures and religions (Jews, Muslims and Christians) have put in numerous contributions to the beauty of this outstanding place and undoubtedly one of the most gorgeous places to visit in Southern Spain. With one of the most extensive historical heritages in the world (declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO December 17, 1984).

One of the highlights is the Mezquita, or the Cathedral, once the when Cordoba was again overpowered by the Christians in the year 1236, the rulers beatified the mosque to be a Christian cathedral. On approaching the Mezquita, one's first thoughts are of approaching a massive fortress. All around the exterior there are massive doors, highly decorative but closed and uninviting. Then we get in a different word. It was known as the Aljama Mosque, at its time the second largest mosque in the world. Taking over 200 years to complete, the Mosque's construction started in 784AD. With the capture of Cordoba by Fernando III in 1236AD the mosque was converted to a cathedral and almost all the outer doors were sealed. During Moorish times, the many open doors of the mosque let in light which made the structure brighter, and, one would imagine, a more welcoming place than it is today. When the mosque was converted into a cathedral, a third of the pillars were removed for a courtyard. In the center of what is left of the mosque, the arches were reworked and the ceiling raised, this space is now the heart of the cathedral (photo above, left). Inside the Mezquita are row after row of arches and pillars. Marble was required for the mosque's construction. Many of the pillars in the Mezquita were pilfered from earlier Roman buildings. If the pillar was too long, it was sunk into the ground and reshaped to fit in with the other columns. It is almost impossible to portray this masterpiece of architecture appropriately in photographs. The repeating arches and soaring ceiling are balanced by exquisite detail decorations. Notorious is the entrance to the "mihrab" (Islamic prayer room) is adorned with Byzantine mosaics and bordered by Koran inscriptions done in gold.

This is one of the most typical streets in Cordoba: The Flower Street. Geraniums are the most popular flowers in Andalusia. It is possible to find many balconies with Geranium flowers in the streets of Cordoba. The street it's a quick walk from the Mezquita. Duck down the street and when you look back along the narrow street you can see a different view of the Mezquita. This narrow arcaded street, typical of the Judería, is abundantly decorated with flowerpots. It open onto a little square adorned with a fountain from which there is a pretty view of the mosque's tower. I visited the street during the lunch time, and it is amazing how fresh these spaces can be.

Alhambra, the Islamic wonder in Spain – Part III. Granada, Spain.

To finish Granada, some words about Generalife and Charles V. Since the Catholic Monarchs took the city of Granada, a great number of restorations have been carried out, although the most important works were done under the order of Charles V, when several rooms were added to the Alhambra and the Charles V palace was built. Today, with a free entrance, Charles V palace, is a very well preserved spot with two very modern and organized museums, telling the stories of this magnificent place. Nevertheless, the Alhambra has always maintained its character of beautiful Muslim palace. A reference also to the Palacio de Generalife (Arabic: Jannat al-'Arif - Architect's Garden) was the summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid sultans of Granada. The palace and gardens were built during the reign of Muhammad III (1302-1309) and redecorated shortly after by Abu I-Walid Isma'il (1313-1324). The complex consists of the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel or Water-Garden Courtyard), which has a long pool framed by flowerbeds, fountains, colonnades and pavilions, and the Sultana's Garden or Courtyard of the Cypress. The former is thought to best preserve the style of the medieval garden in Al-Andalus. Originally the palace was linked to the Alhambra by a covered walkway across the ravine that now divides them. The Generalife is one of the oldest surviving Moorish gardens, very cool in the hot summer days of Andalusia. Next post will be about Cordova.

Alhanbra, the Islamic wonder in Spain – Part II. Granada, Spain.

The structure is very big and presents to visitors the different effects of the historic moments. Mohammed ben Al-Hamar (Mohammed I) was the first king to move to the Alcazaba and no records about a new palace being built are kept until those of Abu l-Walid Ismail (fifth king of the dynasty). A palace was built near the Great Mosque but only the Mexuar is now left because Yusuf I destroyed it completely. He started some improvements in the Comares Tower, the Court of the Myrtles and the Baths. These improvements were finished by Mohammed V, who added them all to the Mexuar, extended the gallery that would later be called Machuca and constructed the Palace of the Lions. These two kings were the most important ones as regards the construction, reconstruction, and decoration of the Alhambra. There are three independent areas in the Nasrid Palaces: the Mexuar, which corresponds to the semipublic part of the palace or selamlik, for justice administration and State affairs; the Comares Palace, which was the official residence of the king; and the Palace of the Lions, which was the private area of the palace, where the Harem was located. Not only were these areas different because of their functions, but also because of their artistic characteristics. The Comares Palace was decorated in a typically Muslim way, but the Palace of the Lions presents Christian influences, probably as a consequence of the friendship between Mohammed V and his Castilian counterpart Pedro I, the Cruel.

Alhambra, the Islamic wonder in Spain. Granada, Spain.

After visiting a few historic buildings of the Arabic world, and tired of the permanent reference “you must see Alhambra, that is special!” I finally went there to prove with my own eyes the beauty of this place. I took a trip to Granada and Cordoba for a few days with some friends, to explore the wonderlands of the Islamic ancient word in Spain. The next Tricky Traveler photos will came from Spain, from Granada and Cordoba. Starting with some general photos from Alhambra, from St. Nicolas view point, with Sierra Nevada as background, and from the of the Albaicin neighborhood, in the end of the day. The name Alhambra comes from an Arabic root which means "red or crimson castle", perhaps due to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold. But there is another more poetic version, evoked by the Moslem analysts who speak of the construction of the Alhambra fortress "by the light of torches", the reflections of which gave the walls their particular coloration. Created originally for military purposes, the Alhambra was an "alcazaba" (fortress), an "alcázar" (palace) and a small "medina" (city), all in one. This triple character helps to explain many distinctive features of the monument. It is located on top of the hill al-Sabika, on the left bank of the river Darro, to the west of the city of Granada and in front of the neighbourhoods of the Albaicin and of the Alcazaba. The Alhambra is located on a strategic point, with a view over the whole city and the meadow (la Vega), and this fact leads to believe that other buildings were already on that site before the Muslims arrived. The complex is surrounded by ramparts and has an irregular shape. Some more details in tomorrow’s photos.

Jordanian scarf’s at Kerak castle. Jordan