Warm welcome. Wadi Rum desert, Jordan

Wadi Rum is a protected area covering 720 square kilometers of dramatic desert wilderness in the south of Jordan. In my opinion, the second biggest reason to go to Jordan. Huge mountains of sandstone and granite emerge, sheer-sided, from wide sandy valleys to reach heights of 1700 meters and more. Narrow canyons and fissures cut deep into the mountains and many conceal ancient rock drawings etched by the peoples of the desert over millennia. Bedouin tribes still live among the mountains of Rum and their large goat-hair tents are a special feature of the landscape. The notorious hospitality, make us feel comfortable and welcome. Virtually all the people living in and around Wadi Rum are of Bedouin origin and, until recently, led nomadic lives, relying on their goat herds. They belong to seven tribal groups, of which the three largest are the Zalabia tribe who make up the majority of people living in Rum Village, now, much more converted in a touristic bases for exploring the desert. Rum village is the only village inside the protected area; the Zalabia tribe is largely responsible for tourism services and operates many of the jeep and camel tours. These services are organized through the Rum Tourism Cooperative, a locally run society that shares the tourism business between the villagers. Even though most local Bedouin have become villagers, they still maintain goat herds for milk, meat and 'jameed', a type of yoghurt. For parts of the year, some families or family members return to a wandering existence with their flocks. Few, however, are able to continue a truly nomadic existence today and the traditional Bedouin lifestyle is fast disappearing. However some faces are still present for a warm welcome and a cup of herbal tea, flavored with mint, rosemary and cardamom seeds.

Jordan. Petra Day and Night

Petra Jordan is by far the best known tourist attraction in Jordan and is considered a national treasure. Now a UNESCO World heritage site, one of the ancient wonders of the world is located 3 hours south of Amman. Established sometime around 6th Century BC the city of Petra Jordan was the capital of the Nabataeans. The city acted as an important economic crossroads for Persian and western Arabian trade routes. In particular, it was a key route for the importation and exportation of silk and spices between China, India, Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome. Sometime after the 14th Century this centre piece of the Nabataean dynasty was abandoned and forgotten by the western world. It was not until 1812 that a Swiss traveler Johann Ludwig Burckhardt re-discovered it. Petra tours entering the location of the city have to pass through 1 km of a winding narrow gorge or Siq. As you journey through soaring vertical cliffs on either side dwarfs the Siq visitors. After weaving through the sheer pink tinged rock faces you finally glimpse the Al-Khazneh (treasury), the entrance to which has been carved into a sheer rock face. This intricately carved facade is believed to have been built in the 1s Century to house the tomb of a Nabataean King. The Petra site reached new heights of fame when it featured in a 1989 Hollywood film, Indiana Jones and the last Crusade starring Harrison Ford and Sean Connery. Sitting pretty high above the Petra valley is the Ad-Deir Monastery which is accessible by a steep climb up 800 odd steps and is well worth the effort. Up here is also a 3000 seat Roman styled theatre. You can do it on foot or in a donkey. Believe me, far safer on foot! In addition to the main attraction, there are scores of intricately carved out tombs littered throughout the Petra Jordan valley. With fascinating rock formations and Roman temples and sacrificial alters. We spend a full day explore this popular attraction in Jordan. We ended our journey to Petra with the most wonderful “treat” ever…Petra by Night. It is only done three nights per week and we were lucky enough to be able to do this before heading back to the desert. They light the entire As Siq and Treasury with over 1500 candles. You make the journey down the As Siq in complete silence so that you can reflect on the beauty and astonishing sights around you. The sky was so clear and the stars were out…it was truly magical! Once you arrive at the Treasury, you sit on mats on the ground and listen to some traditional Jordanian music played by the Bedouins (and they serve you their wonderful tea!). It starts with their “guitar” like instrument that is a rectangle covered with goat skin and only one string. The highlight was when flute music came out of the dark treasury. Eventually the musician appeared in the dark entrance and made his way through the candles to stand before us. Words can’t describe this experience…to see Petra this way, glowing by candlelight, lets you truly appreciate its marvel. I can’t imagine a more amazing way to end our day….it was spectacular and a memory that will never fade! I promise to go on with this story.